How do you know when your brakes are toast?

[Victorofhavoc]

ok, yes, just wondering about the turning manually part.

This is a diagram of how it looks. (found it a few days back on civicx somewhere).

Hopefully that helps visualize. When you turn the piston clockwise it compresses back, equivalent to turning the piston shaft attached to the motor clockwise.

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[iLLNESS]

What sock did you guys use for the top rotor pin? The hydraulic line is right in the way. I managed to do mine but it was a pain in the ass, hoping someone knows of the perfect sized/length socket for that rotor pin.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

What sock did you guys use for the top rotor pin? The hydraulic line is right in the way. I managed to do mine but it was a pain in the ass, hoping someone knows of the perfect sized/length socket for that rotor pin.

I used a 1/4" ratchet with a short impact socket. You can bend the hard line part back slightly (not a ton). Even easier is a standard metric Allen with a ball end. Then you can break it loose and angle around to loosen all the way. I bought some nice Allen's off Amazon that are stainless steel ball end and they're a goto for a lot.

 

[iLLNESS]

I used a 1/4" ratchet with a short impact socket. You can bend the hard line part back slightly (not a ton). Even easier is a standard metric Allen with a ball end. Then you can break it loose and angle around to loosen all the way. I bought some nice Allen's off Amazon that are stainless steel ball end and they're a goto for a lot.

Yeah I guess the ball end allens would work. I'll have to grab some for next time! Everytime I do shit on my car I always end up browsing Tekton tools to get a nice set of everythign I need but always get the job done with the junk I got lol.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Yeah I guess the ball end allens would work. I'll have to grab some for next time! Everytime I do shit on my car I always end up browsing Tekton tools to get a nice set of everythign I need but always get the job done with the junk I got lol.

Yeah I hear you. I love my ir air tools, so I spend a lot of excuses on errands to Northern tool. It's also around the corner from me, so I love it.

Here's the kit I bought. Very solid.

https://a.co/d/cF0pctu

 

[jayy_swish]

First thing I ever do is retract the EPB back even before removing the wheels. Have accessory mode on, and keep the calipers on and put in maintenance mode. This way if it does go back into normal mode it’ll stop once it feels the brake pads and not pop out the piston.

Stupid question you had the parking brake off? Seen it freeze up when the brake is on still

 

[Victorofhavoc]

First thing I ever do is retract the EPB back even before removing the wheels. Have accessory mode on, and keep the calipers on and put in maintenance mode. This way if it does go back into normal mode it’ll stop once it feels the brake pads and not pop out the piston.

Stupid question you had the parking brake off? Seen it freeze up when the brake is on still

I had the epb off. Problem was just a combo of me in a rush and crappy chinazon tool wording. Just don't go into normal mode with the caliper off. Simple enough. My piston didn't also retract all the way in maintenance mode. That could have been due to wear level, but who knows.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

So here's what a carbotech xp10 race pad looks like after 12 sessions. The other pad is a brand new xp12. This means the xp10 is going to last about 24 sessions and I bet the xp12 will last the same. This is really solid for a race pad.

 

[evanescent03]

So here's what a carbotech xp10 race pad looks like after 12 sessions. The other pad is a brand new xp12. This means the xp10 is going to last about 24 sessions and I bet the xp12 will last the same. This is really solid for a race pad.

which DBA rotors did you go with? i was looking at doing Girodisc and i do see there are quite a few DBA options. i'm getting horrible brake judder and i'll probably throw some new pads/rotors on and see if i can get my current "juddery" rotors turned or at least sand 'em to see if that helps.

my friends with an FL5 and FK8 have had good success with the XP10s but I wore mine down to ~ 1/2 of what yours are showing in only 10 sessions. i'm not sure what i do to brakes but i absolutely obliterate them. used up a set of G80 M3 CS stock brake pads in a single day... down to the backing plate. i pride myself on braking as late as possible but i'm wondering if that's excessively hard on them. my buddy noted that he gets on the brakes sooner than me but also comes off them sooner to roll back on throttle. *shrug*.

that being said, after one weekend at Watkins Glen (first time taking this car to the track) i'm looking at new front pads and rotors.

Considering bumping up to XP12 or XP20? possibly Ferodo DS3.12 which i really liked on my GT4.

Why are you changing rotors by the way? Maybe i missed your reasoning... worn out or judder?

 

[Victorofhavoc]

which DBA rotors did you go with? i was looking at doing Girodisc and i do see there are quite a few DBA options. i'm getting horrible brake judder and i'll probably throw some new pads/rotors on and see if i can get my current "juddery" rotors turned or at least sand 'em to see if that helps.

my friends with an FL5 and FK8 have had good success with the XP10s but I wore mine down to ~ 1/2 of what yours are showing in only 10 sessions. i'm not sure what i do to brakes but i absolutely obliterate them. used up a set of G80 M3 CS stock brake pads in a single day... down to the backing plate. i pride myself on braking as late as possible but i'm wondering if that's excessively hard on them. my buddy noted that he gets on the brakes sooner than me but also comes off them sooner to roll back on throttle. *shrug*.

that being said, after one weekend at Watkins Glen (first time taking this car to the track) i'm looking at new front pads and rotors.

Considering bumping up to XP12 or XP20? possibly Ferodo DS3.12 which i really liked on my GT4.

Why are you changing rotors by the way? Maybe i missed your reasoning... worn out or judder?

I changed to the dba4k because my rear were totally worn out. Fronts are still oem disc and now on xp12.

Xp12 is the way if you're chasing the best times. Xp24 if you want a more endurance pad, but be ready to sacrifice tire and have some lockup on anything less than a slick.

Your friend is right, being super late on the brakes isn't always ideal. Ross Bentley has a good article covering this. It's all about managing momentum, weight, and heat. Keep that concept in mind. Something will always overheat. I'd rather it be brake before tire. If you overdo brakes and keep chasing brake zones you end up cooking tires. Then it's time for slicks, then aggressive alignment, and so the vicious cycle goes.

I highly recommend using a tool to graph a speed chart and look to make every corner a smooth sharkfin shape. Smoother and gentler is often the fastest way.

Xp12 should last 24 sessions and Xp24 should last 36 when the brakes are reasonably sized to the vehicle. These brakes are fairly appropriate for the platform, but may need some extra help for airflow. Fender vents would be ideal if getting serious. Ti shims also help more evenly distribute heat a tad

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