HOMELINK

[acurax]

Okay let's diagnose this point by point:

• "properly ground the mirror" - the mirror is already properly grounded. If it weren't, it wouldn't power on. This isn't household wiring - cars don't have separate return paths.
• "ensure all power connections and thresholds are correct" - the yellow wire that powers the Homelink daughterboard is already present in the harness on your Integra mirror. The car-side of the wiring harness just isn't populated on that pin. Modifying the mirror's harness powers it from the same circuit that powers the auto-dimming aspect of the mirror. They share a ground, so nothing changes there.
• "adds a separate fuse for additional protection to the car should something go wrong with the mirror" - the mirror power is already protected by a fuse. If you don't believe me, short it out. Then replace the fuse.

Honestly, wtf

You’re right about the grounding and the existing fuse protection — I’m not arguing that the wiring is unsafe. My remaining concern isn’t about safety at all, but about whether the Homelink module is getting the power environment it was designed for.

The Accord Homelink mirror isn’t just the Integra mirror with extra buttons; it adds RF components and was engineered around a different harness. In the Accord, the Homelink module has its own dedicated 15A feed, and the feature won’t operate unless that fuse is present, even though the auto‑dimming still works. That tells me the Homelink board expects a different power setup than what the Integra’s shared 10A circuits provide.

If you power both the dimming circuit and the Homelink board from the same smaller shared circuit, everything will still function, but the Homelink module may not be operating under the conditions it was designed for. The likely effect isn’t a safety issue — it’s reduced transmitter performance, like shorter range.

So I’m not disagreeing with you about grounding or fuse protection. I’m only pointing out that the Accord mirror’s electronics were designed for a different power configuration, and that difference may affect how strongly the Homelink module transmits.

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[Spart]

You’re right about the grounding and the existing fuse protection — I’m not arguing that the wiring is unsafe. My remaining concern isn’t about safety at all, but about whether the Homelink module is getting the power environment it was designed for.

The Accord Homelink mirror isn’t just the Integra mirror with extra buttons; it adds RF components and was engineered around a different harness.

False. The harness that runs through the stem is the same, and the plug inside the mirror clamshell is the same. This is why you can use the stem/mirror harness harvested from an Integra in a Homelink mirror from an Accord.

In the Accord, the Homelink module has its own dedicated 15A feed, and the feature won’t operate unless that fuse is present, even though the auto‑dimming still works. That tells me the Homelink board expects a different power setup than what the Integra’s shared 10A circuits provide.

If you power both the dimming circuit and the Homelink board from the same smaller shared circuit, everything will still function, but the Homelink module may not be operating under the conditions it was designed for.

The reason that the Homelink module has a separate power wire is not power demands.

It's because Honda/Acura spec'd that the auto-dimming feature turn on with ignition, and the Homelink feature be powered constantly, allowing you to open your garage door with the ignition off. This requires separate power circuits.

Again, both modules share a single ground wire. That ground wire isn't upsized to account for 25 total amps of power draw, because that's not a thing that will ever happen in normal operation. It's the same gauge of conductor as each power wire.

Fuses protect the wire, they don't determine the draw of the device connected to the wire.

I would wager that the Homelink module draws one amp or less. Note that I'm not asserting this as fact, but instead offering it as a made-up opinion. Something you should do, frequently.

The likely effect isn’t a safety issue — it’s reduced transmitter performance, like shorter range.

This is 1000% made-up FUD. The Homelink in my Integra has BETTER range than the battery-powered door opener remote that came with my garage door opener.

You really need to stop posting nonsense in this thread. You speak from zero experience, and it's blatantly obvious.

Welcome to the ignore list.

 

[acurax]

False. The harness that runs through the stem is the same, and the plug inside the mirror clamshell is the same. This is why you can use the stem/mirror harness harvested from an Integra in a Homelink mirror from an Accord.



The reason that the Homelink module has a separate power wire is not power demands.

It's because Honda/Acura spec'd that the auto-dimming feature turn on with ignition, and the Homelink feature be powered constantly, allowing you to open your garage door with the ignition off. This requires separate power circuits.

Again, both modules share a single ground wire. That ground wire isn't upsized to account for 25 total amps of power draw, because that's not a thing that will ever happen in normal operation. It's the same gauge of conductor as each power wire.

Fuses protect the wire, they don't determine the draw of the device connected to the wire.

I would wager that the Homelink module draws one amp or less. Note that I'm not asserting this as fact, but instead offering it as a made-up opinion. Something you should do, frequently.



This is 1000% made-up FUD. The Homelink in my Integra has BETTER range than the battery-powered door opener remote that came with my garage door opener.

You really need to stop posting nonsense in this thread. You speak from zero experience, and it's blatantly obvious.

Welcome to the ignore list.

The harnesses to the mirror are not the same, and that’s the entire point I’ve been making.
The internal harness inside the mirror shell may very well be identical for manufacturing efficiency — I never argued otherwise. What I’m talking about is the vehicle‑side harness and the power configuration, which is different between the Accord and the Integra. That’s why the Accord Homelink mirror expects two separate feeds: one ignition‑switched for dimming, and one constant for Homelink.

You’re also repeating something I already acknowledged: yes, both modules share a single ground. I never claimed they didn’t. What I have not asked — and you haven’t addressed— is whether the gauge is identical across both circuits. If you know that for a fact, feel free to provide it.

On the fuse point: you’re only half right. Fuses absolutely protect the wiring, but they also protect the electronics on the circuit. Manufacturers don’t choose fuse ratings arbitrarily. If the Homelink module only ever drew a single amp, a 5A fuse would be sufficient. The fact that Honda spec’d a dedicated 15A fused feed for the Homelink circuit is part of why I’m pointing out that the Accord mirror was engineered around a different power environment than the Integra’s shared 10A circuit.

None of this is “FUD.” It’s simply acknowledging that the Accord mirror’s electronics were designed for a different power configuration. You can choose to ignore that difference, but pretending it doesn’t exist doesn’t make it go away.

If your setup works well for you, that’s great. But dismissing technical differences as “nonsense” doesn’t make them disappear, and it doesn’t make anyone wrong for pointing them out.

 

[SlippyFist]

finally stopped putting this off and made my frankenmirror. i used a butt splice connector to connect the red/yellow wires since i'm too retarded to solder. man honestly the hardest part for me was getting the stupid clamshell apart and off. as for the ball/stem i put the spring on the bracket then used the edge of my kitchen table to press the stem on. i'm pretty sure it's the easiest way to approach it

 

[Spart]

finally stopped putting this off and made my frankenmirror.

Be careful admitting that around here, or some cringelord with a degree from a Facebook group will show up and claim that Homelink of all things is somehow gonna draw too much power for an 18GA wire to handle.

Glad you got it sorted.

 

[SlippyFist]

yeah it was kind of a pain in the ass but my garage is nearing completion so i needed to get it done. that vid you sent me was a lifesaver, as was that ifixit kit you showed.

 

[bvanlieu]

For what it is, yes its more then a 1 beer job in terms of being annoying, but I waited a year to do this and that was just dumb on my part, I should have done it pretty much after getting the car.

Re-assembling the mirror ball/spring was easy using a hard surface (I used the flat top of a vice) and a 3/8 or 1/2 6" socket extension and hammer. This allows you to direct the blow very precisely to snap them together. That's my little tip for readers.

Otherwise be patient removing parts, and its not a bad job at all.

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