Gohan408 - 2024 ITS Build Thread PRL / Advan / COBB

[cipher]

AP1 - This was my masterpiece. I built this from the ground up—every nut, bolt, and bushing was replaced by my own hands. I started with almost zero mechanical background, but thanks to endless YouTube tutorials and community support, I made it happen.

That's awesome. Nothing like doing it all yourself from the ground up. I haven't made the time, nor garage space, for any project car like that. Always worried I'd never get around to finishing it. But I'd love to do that with a B16A build. I really miss my old 91 CRX Si. It was like driving a go-kart on the road.

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[gohan408]

That's awesome. Nothing like doing it all yourself from the ground up. I haven't made the time, nor garage space, for any project car like that. Always worried I'd never get around to finishing it. But I'd love to do that with a B16A build. I really miss my old 91 CRX Si. It was like driving a go-kart on the road.

hey man, never too late to start a project. As long as you have the time. I rode in the back of my friends CRX, literally laying on my back.

 

[cipher]

hey man, never too late to start a project. As long as you have the time. I rode in the back of my friends CRX, literally laying on my back.

The back? Hahaha, more storage than seat there.

 

[gohan408]

Installed a coolering plate that can help with heat dissipation and its 4x thicker than OEM.

Also changed Engine Oil and MTF @ 24.5k

 

[cipher]

Plate looks awesome!

And Amsoil is good stuff.

However, I would only use Pennzoil in my lawnmower as it's Group III oil. Stick to Amsoil, Redline, or Mobil 1 for true synthetic Group IV. I typically use Mobil since Amsoil and Redline can be expensive.

 

[gohan408]

Plate looks awesome!

And Amsoil is good stuff.

However, I would only use Pennzoil in my lawnmower as it's Group III oil. Stick to Amsoil, Redline, or Mobil 1 for true synthetic Group IV. I typically use Mobil since Amsoil and Redline can be expensive.

Yea I ordered AMSOIL engine oil but I didnt realized they’re 1 gallon jugs instead of 5QT so I’m a bit short. Next time at 30k Ill switch over to AMSOIL

 

[gohan408]

Installed Wunderladen Racing rear camber arms. Getting an alignment next week!

 

[UWU-mancer]

Oh wow. What’s the camber goal for the rear?

 

[UWU-mancer]

I wanted to share a look back at the cars that shaped my obsession over the years. It’s been a blast jumping between different platforms and brands, though looking at this list, I think a wagon definitely needs to be back in the garage one day.

The car that started it all. I worked every part-time shift I could get to buy this brand new. I still remember the 7% APR and the absolute terror of stalling it the entire way home from the dealership.

2001 5th Gen Prelude (Satin Silver, 5 speed)

B6 A4 6 speed - The one I miss the most. Bought it with only 16 miles on the clock and proceeded to spend every cent I had as a broke college student building it.

E46 M3 - Mostly stock other than the typical CSL bits and JDM wheels, lowered on KW coilovers.

B8 Avant - Link to Audizine Build Thread, I love wagons!

AP2, A "short-lived" but sweet fling.

AP1 - This was my masterpiece. I built this from the ground up—every nut, bolt, and bushing was replaced by my own hands. I started with almost zero mechanical background, but thanks to endless YouTube tutorials and community support, I made it happen.

Current Side Chick

Ap looks sick. For me, my first one was a Mazda rx3. Eventually it got dual 10a motors with huge carburetors and exhaust work. I had to go to Puerto Rico to pick those motors up

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Plate looks awesome!

And Amsoil is good stuff.

However, I would only use Pennzoil in my lawnmower as it's Group III oil. Stick to Amsoil, Redline, or Mobil 1 for true synthetic Group IV. I typically use Mobil since Amsoil and Redline can be expensive.

I'm not a big pennzoil fan, but I will say despite being a group 3, they're a very well filtered and purified 3 that acts like a 4. They're still not ideal if you plan to run any sustained oil temps above 275, but they're good.

Mobil1 is the one that ime thins quickly as it ages and makes its way through turbo gaskets and into the turbo. It was horrendous on my subarus and gti.

Amsoil and redline can genuinely sustain oil temps in the 325 range without falling apart. I've oil tested all of these on my daily and track toys, and the results tend to favor Amsoil and redline most. Liquimoly in the full synth is another that my German cars have really liked. Over 80k miles on my q7 with nearly 30k miles towing heavy (6600lbs typically), and it loves the stuff.

 

[UWU-mancer]

I'm not a big pennzoil fan, but I will say despite being a group 3, they're a very well filtered and purified 3 that acts like a 4. They're still not ideal if you plan to run any sustained oil temps above 275, but they're good.

Mobil1 is the one that ime thins quickly as it ages and makes its way through turbo gaskets and into the turbo. It was horrendous on my subarus and gti.

Amsoil and redline can genuinely sustain oil temps in the 325 range without falling apart. I've oil tested all of these on my daily and track toys, and the results tend to favor Amsoil and redline most. Liquimoly in the full synth is another that my German cars have really liked. Over 80k miles on my q7 with nearly 30k miles towing heavy (6600lbs typically), and it loves the stuff.

Engine builder I apprenticed under told me something that stuck with me forever.

at about 2k miles. The wear and protection packages finally start breaking down. If you need max reliability and performance from an engine. Do the oil change before then. Wife’s car gets its oil changed every 3k miles. Mine, every 2k miles

I do prefer amsoil tho. Great group 4 and 5 hybrid stock, like 90% 4 and 10% 5. Perfect for seals.

during api sn, right when the standards for sp were made public. Amsoil already met and exceeded sp by a large margin without even trying

 

[gohan408]

Oh wow. What’s the camber goal for the rear?

nothing crazy, just want to dial it closer to factory settings

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Engine builder I apprenticed under told me something that stuck with me forever.

at about 2k miles. The wear and protection packages finally start breaking down. If you need max reliability and performance from an engine. Do the oil change before then. Wife’s car gets its oil changed every 3k miles. Mine, every 2k miles

I do prefer amsoil tho. Great group 4 and 5 hybrid stock, like 90% 4 and 10% 5. Perfect for seals.

during api sn, right when the standards for sp were made public. Amsoil already met and exceeded sp by a large margin without even trying

That was true years ago, but I've done oil analysis with oil at 3k, 5k, and 10k when using quality oils. There's not a significant falloff of any sort at 5k or 10k with modern oils. Most of the time the filter is the problem at 10k. It certainly depends on the temps you run though. If you're running a mediocre oil past 275 or you cook even Amsoil to 325 repeatedly over 1k miles, it's trashed.

 

[UWU-mancer]

That was true years ago, but I've done oil analysis with oil at 3k, 5k, and 10k when using quality oils. There's not a significant falloff of any sort at 5k or 10k with modern oils. Most of the time the filter is the problem at 10k. It certainly depends on the temps you run though. If you're running a mediocre oil past 275 or you cook even Amsoil to 325 repeatedly over 1k miles, it's trashed.

Oh no. The advice given was in regards to group 3’s

the habit stuck with me tho. Amsoil’s signature series biggest problem is how heavy it is in detergents. Which is awesome for a daily driver. And fine for someone that occasionally tracks or auto x. However, I couldn’t recommend it over something like 300v for someone that tracks or auto x’s multiple times a month.

 

[gohan408]

In the process of getting JST Performance E-tuning....so stay...tuned..

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