wickedgoodheah
Member
so it just dawned on me that TTD doesn't provide the button to turn the heated wheel on. Do you have that part number by chance?
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akoza
Senior Member
Correct. AFAIK Acura only sells the wheel as an assembly and you can't buy the switch separately. You'll need everything in the kit except for the wheel itself (2 wiring harnesses, a few one-time use bolts, switch, controller, clock spring, back plastic cover).
I listed just the wheel on fb marketplace and someone who needed a new wheel bought it for something like $50.
wickedgoodheah
Member
So you’re saying I need to buy this?
https://www.hondaacuraonline.com/oem-parts/acura-heated-steering-wheel-8u973s5210
wickedgoodheah
Member
Okay, I see that. So everything comes off this wheel and goes onto the TTD wheel? https://www.acurapartsforless.com/o...g-wheel-heated-w-o-paddle-shifter-8u973s5210a
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wickedgoodheah
Member
Oh man. I’m a dope. I feel like if I knew I would have to buy this OEM wheel anyway, I would have just skipped the TTD wheel ?
akoza
Senior Member
Sorry haha, I thought I was pretty clear on the total cost and what all goes into it. FWIW you can get at least some of your money back by selling just the wheel from the Acura kit, as well as your original wheel (took a little while but I was able to sell both).
wickedgoodheah
Member
Yeah. I’m just a dope, but it’s done now. I’ll hopefully be able to get it going mid January
wickedgoodheah
Member
You don’t by chance have a picture of which wire goes to what from the TTD to the wiring harness do you?
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akoza
Senior Member
I thought I did but I guess I only have a picture of the connection from Acura's wheel (see below) and a description of what I did. I ended up transferring that green connector to the TTDCraft wheel. I had some extra wires with similar sized pins laying around so I depinned it and soldered and heatshrinked those wires onto the TTDCraft wheel. If you don't have extra wires laying around, you can just cut the wires with the green connector still attached and transfer them over and solder/heatshrink.
Acura wheel:
- 2 red wires: heat
- 2 grey wires: temperature sensor
TTDCraft wheel:
- 1 red and 1 black: heat
- 2 blue wires: temperature sensor
The polarity shouldn't matter as long as you connect temp sensor wires to temp sensor, and heat wires to heating element. I had tested the polarity both ways with a car battery prior to installing and was still getting heat both ways.
Does the wire on the TTDCraft wheel still come out from the side, or did they update the design to come out the bottom?
wickedgoodheah
Member
They did not upgrade it. It’s 4 wires. I was just going to remove the harness and solder the wires.I thought I did but I guess I only have a picture of the connection from Acura's wheel (see below) and a description of what I did. I ended up transferring that green connector to the TTDCraft wheel. I had some extra wires with similar sized pins laying around so I depinned it and soldered and heatshrinked those wires onto the TTDCraft wheel. If you don't have extra wires laying around, you can just cut the wires with the green connector still attached and transfer them over and solder/heatshrink.
Acura wheel:
- 2 red wires: heat
- 2 grey wires: temperature sensor
TTDCraft wheel:
- 1 red and 1 black: heat
- 2 blue wires: temperature sensor
The polarity shouldn't matter as long as you connect temp sensor wires to temp sensor, and heat wires to heating element. I had tested the polarity both ways with a car battery prior to installing and was still getting heat both ways.
Does the wire on the TTDCraft wheel still come out from the side, or did they update the design to come out the bottom?
edit: sorry I didn’t actually fully read your question. It still comes out from the left side and not the bottom.
Last edited:
akoza
Senior Member
Cool, yeah that's what I'd do if I wasn't me lol.
To clarify I meant is the harness coming out the side of the steering wheel, not the connector.
Because my harness came out from the side, I had to pay extra attention to make sure it didn't get in the way of the plastic trim closing completely. I had to do a little bit of trimming of the inside of the plastic and add a dab of super glue to hold it closed. I emailed TTDcraft about this but wasn't sure if they relocated the harness after that.
wickedgoodheah
Member
How warm would you say the wheel gets? Even the OEM heated wheel seems just above like warm. It also seem to take longer than the oem to warm up, but I supposed it’s like 2 times as thick too. But unlike the heated seats, the engine needs to be on for the heated steaming wheel to work. The OEM heated wheel works fine, but the TTD wheel keeps turning off the heated function after a minute or two. Polarity didn’t seem to matter.I thought I did but I guess I only have a picture of the connection from Acura's wheel (see below) and a description of what I did. I ended up transferring that green connector to the TTDCraft wheel. I had some extra wires with similar sized pins laying around so I depinned it and soldered and heatshrinked those wires onto the TTDCraft wheel. If you don't have extra wires laying around, you can just cut the wires with the green connector still attached and transfer them over and solder/heatshrink.
Acura wheel:
- 2 red wires: heat
- 2 grey wires: temperature sensor
TTDCraft wheel:
- 1 red and 1 black: heat
- 2 blue wires: temperature sensor
The polarity shouldn't matter as long as you connect temp sensor wires to temp sensor, and heat wires to heating element. I had tested the polarity both ways with a car battery prior to installing and was still getting heat both ways.
Does the wire on the TTDCraft wheel still come out from the side, or did they update the design to come out the bottom?
akoza
Senior Member
I agree with you, it's not very hot and would be nice if it could be a bit hotter. And I think the thickness also plays a bit of a factor. My wife's RAV4, on the other hand, does get noticeably warmer. That said, I think the heated seats are also subpar in comparison to other cars and get "just warm" instead of hot. Over time though, I've gotten used to it and appreciate having it over not having any heating.
When you say it "turns off" after a minute, do you mean it completely stops and you have to repeatedly hit the button again? I haven't had any issues with that - I wonder if somehow yours is drawing too much current or something, or you have a loose ground or loose wire somewhere?
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