Accidentally deleted all my engine DTCs from the ECU

[SlippyFist]

Yeah, so I got the whole 'emissions' thing last night and while i got the CEL and the notifications about the emissions systems/rev match system/etc to go away, i know there was still an internal code thrown because the pops and burbles were no longer working in S+ mode. i didn't feel like dealing with the dealership so i hooked up a code reader that i have. The reader was showing the code for some camshaft sensor, and while trying to reset it i ended up deleting all the DTCs from the car's computer.

Is this something that can be undone? Is the dealership going to tell my warranty to get fucked? I drove the car for a couple of miles and everything seems fine- the pops and burbles are back, but i'm assuming i really need to unfuck this sooner rather than later in case some actual issue comes up with my car that it now won't detect.

 

[zooka]

While you can't undo it , there is no harm in clearing them. The dealer may have done it anyway, to see if they would come back. If there is an actual problem with the sensor, the CEL will come back on.

 

[SlippyFist]

While you can't undo it , there is no harm in clearing them. The dealer may have done it anyway, to see if they would come back. If there is an actual problem with the sensor, the CEL will come back on.

ok so i was confused, based on the wording used by the tool- it gave me the impression i actually removed the codes from the ECU, not just clearing them. it now shows red flags by all the major system monitors- fuel system, catalyst, EVAP, O2/O2 heat monitors, etc- it make it look like they're permanently gone now

i actually called one of the service techs from the dealership that i sorta trust; i pointed the emissions thread out to him so he could read it for his awareness, and when i explained the codes situation he laughed at me and said not to worry about it, as those diagnostic tools we can buy don't have the capability of actually removing the codes from the ECU, and said those monitors should come back online after driving the car for a while, and also that the engine codes and CEL will definitely come back on if the car detects another problem.

sorry, im really tired, and i'm also a fucking idiot.

 

[creaturemachine]

You're good man. It's the same as if you disconnected the battery. Like your tech said you can't really break anything with a code reader.

Look at it this way, it's a good excuse to go for a drive while it resets everything

 

[koatic]

My OBDII reader only clears ACTIVE CEL codes and yes, they come back if there is a problem.
Glad you got your Pops and Burbles back..

 

[Fred 930]

This thread is an opportunity to discuss code readers. The OP used a generic, inexpensive OBD2 reader from any auto parts store that will read common emission related codes. It will reset such codes, although the ECU will typically then report an incomplete readiness status (which will fail emission testing) until the car is driven long enough to either: 1) again set the fault code ; 0r 2) successfully pass the testing phase and satisfy the "readiness" phase.

But being new to the Honda / Acura camp - it there a better semi-professional diagnostic reader specifically for those cars that's still affordable for home use? I'm interested in something similar to the Ross-Tech VCDS (Vag-Com) tool used for VW/Audi - which can do almost everything a factory VW scan tool can do. So, what's the best scan tool for Honda / Acura?

 

[jayy_swish]

This thread is an opportunity to discuss code readers. The OP used a generic, inexpensive OBD2 reader from any auto parts store that will read common emission related codes. It will reset such codes, although the ECU will typically then report an incomplete readiness status (which will fail emission testing) until the car is driven long enough to either: 1) again set the fault code ; 0r 2) successfully pass the testing phase and satisfy the "readiness" phase.

But being new to the Honda / Acura camp - it there a better semi-professional diagnostic reader specifically for those cars that's still affordable for home use? I'm interested in something similar to the Ross-Tech VCDS (Vag-Com) tool used for VW/Audi - which can do almost everything a factory VW scan tool can do. So, what's the best scan tool for Honda / Acura?

Posted this in another thread I believe OP was in but will post it here again.

https://a.co/d/fl5qfrf
Can read/erase all codes in all modules, live data, and can do some special functions (ex. Place rear brakes in maintenance mode). It DOES NOT have bidirectional control or programming/coding. You get 1 automaker for lifetime updates and can purchase others for a fee and those are on a 1yr subscription. (I have used this and it’s great + cheap)

https://a.co/d/9EZEOXz
This will do about just about everything Hondas HDS will do. I have heard good things from it but I do not have first hand experience with it. I have read that there are some limitations in the sense that some stuff has a fee to unlock. Not sure the fee’s

 

[Fred 930]

Thanks - The first Autel model looks pretty basic. But the second LAUNCH is more interesting. There is one negative comment that the Amazon model is gray-market and not supported by LaunchUSA - so that might be important for some. But if nothing else, there are other LAUNCH models to chose from. Appreciate the information! ... Thanks

Anyone have experience with any of the LAUNCH models?

 

[creaturemachine]

Anyone have experience with any of the LAUNCH models?

No experience but that thing, like everything from amazon now, is pure chinesium and it looks like a cheap copy of the original.

 

[SlippyFist]

This thread is an opportunity to discuss code readers. The OP used a generic, inexpensive OBD2 reader from any auto parts store that will read common emission related codes. It will reset such codes, although the ECU will typically then report an incomplete readiness status (which will fail emission testing) until the car is driven long enough to either: 1) again set the fault code ; 0r 2) successfully pass the testing phase and satisfy the "readiness" phase.

for the record, it was an Innova 5210 v1 that I got years ago. i was thinking about getting a new once since it uses (the now ancient) micro usb lol though i was able to update the firmware/database on it for free from the pc app and it still works with the mobile app

i plugged it in to see and all those red codes are gone now, though its still telling me that "the vehicle has no powertrain DTCs or freeze frame data stored on the ECU" and i'm not sure what that means or if that's bad or not

 

[jayy_swish]

for the record, it was an Innova 5210 v1 that I got years ago. i was thinking about getting a new once since it uses (the now ancient) micro usb lol though i was able to update the firmware/database on it for free from the pc app and it still works with the mobile app

i plugged it in to see and all those red codes are gone now, though its still telling me that "the vehicle has no powertrain DTCs or freeze frame data stored on the ECU" and i'm not sure what that means or if that's bad or not

Basically means that there isn’t a check engine light. DTC is the code (Ex. DTC P0301 is Cylinder 1 misfire). Freeze frame shows you the car’s data while the code was set (Ex. Coolant temp, RPM, speed, fuel trims etc). You won’t have freeze frame data unless there’s a DTC code. So having neither a DTC or freeze frame data is a good thing lol

 

[SlippyFist]

Basically means that there isn’t a check engine light. DTC is the code (Ex. DTC P0301 is Cylinder 1 misfire). Freeze frame shows you the car’s data while the code was set (Ex. Coolant temp, RPM, speed, fuel trims etc). You won’t have freeze frame data unless there’s a DTC code. So having neither a DTC or freeze frame data is a good thing lol

thanks for that, im sorta retarded and i have no idea what im doing.

 

[jayy_swish]

thanks for that, im sorta retarded and i have no idea what im doing.

No worries, we all start off somewhere