2023 DE4 Integra A-Spec: Camber and New Coilovers, Anything Else I Should Consider Changing

[Erick4hun]

What's up yall,

I've been running Eibach Pro lowering springs for some months now and though I do like the drop and OEM-feel, I'm thinking of switching over to coilovers soon. I just got new 18x9.5 +30 wheels, running on 235/40/18, and have roughly a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between wheel and fender which I want to reduce. The rears have a bit of natural negative camber which I like, but I do plan on getting some rear camber arms to better dial my fitment when I go for an alignment. I currently have 0 negative camber in the fronts but my goal is to have -2 camber on both the front and rears after getting my coilovers and camber kit.

That being said, should I be changing any other suspension components when I go to coilovers? I currently have 25k miles on the car which seems fairly new, so I don't want to swap parts that I don't need to.

As for camber, if I would want to go back to 0 camber on the rear, will camber arms be able to do that and get me proper alignment? Or will I need to get toe arms as well to make this happen?

Below are some pics of my car in its current conditions. I can help answer any questions based on my setup now.

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[slowcountry]

For handling I've only really done the PRL Tower Struts & RV6 Rear Sway, but I have the RV6 rear control arms on my rainy day list. I'd highly recommend tower struts - night and day difference for body roll. The upgraded rear sway lets you power through corners better.

RV6 Lower A Control Arm (Camber)
RV6 Lower B Control Arm (Toe)

I just got new 18x9.5 +30 wheels, running on 235/40/18, and have roughly a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between wheel and fender which I want to reduce.

By my understanding, the coilovers would let you lower it a bit more to close that gap, but then you'd probably need the -2 camber to prevent rubbing. Are they rubbing at all now?

I've been looking for new wheels, but under the thought that 8.5in wide at +45 to +50 is the max size an the ASpec (according to AI). It might have told me that because I told it I didn't want to mess with camber or reduce sidewall height.

 

[Erick4hun]

For handling I've only really done the PRL Tower Struts & RV6 Rear Sway, but I have the RV6 rear control arms on my rainy day list. I'd highly recommend tower struts - night and day difference for body roll. The upgraded rear sway lets you power through corners better.

RV6 Lower A Control Arm (Camber)
RV6 Lower B Control Arm (Toe)



By my understanding, the coilovers would let you lower it a bit more to close that gap, but then you'd probably need the -2 camber to prevent rubbing. Are they rubbing at all now?

I've been looking for new wheels, but under the thought that 8.5in wide at +45 to +50 is the max size an the ASpec (according to AI). It might have told me that because I told it I didn't want to mess with camber or reduce sidewall height.

Noted. I've been looking into tower strut bars as well; I'll consider the PRL one.

Are you going to be changing both your camber and toe arms? I've heard toe arms have a bit of adjustability, so I plan to keep the OEM ones, but will change my camber arms.

For the wheels, I did my fair share of research before ordering. 8.5wide with +45 will tuck forsure. If you plan to keep 0 camber on front and rears, I think 9.5 wide with a +35 or +38 offset will be your best bet and will keep you flush. 9.5w +30 seems to be the max I'd go, as any size bigger may result to rubbing on a full turn. I have no rubbing issues at all with my setup; I poke slightly in the front with 0 camber, and am flush in the rear with -2 to -3 negative camber. I plan to go -2 on the front to flush out my wheels.

 

[JC-RH]

Car looks good, and you’re on the right track with getting rear camber arms. They definitely help to dial everything back. I have coilovers and SPC rear arms, and I’m running some tight fitment with no toe issues.

You’ll also need to get some ADS canceler modules if you get coilovers. I have an extra set. PM for details if you’re interested.

 

[Erick4hun]

Car looks good, and you’re on the right track with getting rear camber arms. They definitely help to dial everything back. I have coilovers and SPC rear arms, and I’m running some tight fitment with no toe issues.

You’ll also need to get some ADS canceler modules if you get coilovers. I have an extra set. PM for details if you’re interested.

Appreciate it man, I'm digging the Work wheels on yours as well. Were you able to get back to 0 camber after you dialed everything in? I'll likely run a bit of camber, but want to weigh my options as well.

I have the A-Spec without the tech, so I'm not sure if the ADS applies to mine, but I believe I'll need it if I want my different drive modes. I'll PM you once I get my coils, if you still have them available.

For your work wheels, I assume they came with center air valves. Did you transfer over your TPMS sensors, and did you have any issues doing so? I didn't do it this time around but will do it when I swap my tires.

 

[JC-RH]

Appreciate it man, I'm digging the Work wheels on yours as well. Were you able to get back to 0 camber after you dialed everything in? I'll likely run a bit of camber, but want to weigh my options as well.

I have the A-Spec without the tech, so I'm not sure if the ADS applies to mine, but I believe I'll need it if I want my different drive modes. I'll PM you once I get my coils, if you still have them available.

For your work wheels, I assume they came with center air valves. Did you transfer over your TPMS sensors, and did you have any issues doing so? I didn't do it this time around but will do it when I swap my tires.

Thank you. If you have Drive Modes, then you’ll need the module. If not, you’ll be stuck on Normal Mode and will have a warning on your dash.

I’m not sure what you mean by “center air valves.” My wheels came with their own Work valve stem, but I also specified at the time of custom ordering that I wanted a secondary valve hole to be placed on the opposite edge of the wheel. Since the TPMS valve stems are non-reusable, I ordered a new set from eBay for about $45. They automatically resync to your car. No reprogramming needed. It’s been running great for 2.5 years.

When I was on Eibah Sportlines, my rear camber was about -3. With the camber arms, I was able to set it at -1.5 camber and 0.05 toe on each rear wheel. Four months later I got coilovers and another alignment. It’s been 15k miles, and tires have been wearing evenly despite being lowered 2.25” all around.

I’ll check the alignment details later today and let you know.

 

[slowcountry]

Are you going to be changing both your camber and toe arms? I've heard toe arms have a bit of adjustability, so I plan to keep the OEM ones, but will change my camber arms.

If I add the control arms it'd mostly be for aesthetics. Basically have a full PRL & RV6 build, and RV6 has the control arms so why not? Lol

Since I'm thinking that I don't want to mess with camber or coilovers I think I'll be going with 18x8.5 +45 245/40R18 (attempting to get the max amount of rubber on the ground without camber adjustments).

Thinking these Rays MID R26 with PS4S or ECS02 tires (I think they're ~18lbs vs the stock 28.2lb):

 

[Erick4hun]

Thank you. If you have Drive Modes, then you’ll need the module. If not, you’ll be stuck on Normal Mode and will have a warning on your dash.

I’m not sure what you mean by “center air valves.” My wheels came with their own Work valve stem, but I also specified at the time of custom ordering that I wanted a secondary valve hole to be placed on the opposite edge of the wheel. Since the TPMS valve stems are non-reusable, I ordered a new set from eBay for about $45. They automatically resync to your car. No reprogramming needed. It’s been running great for 2.5 years.

When I was on Eibah Sportlines, my rear camber was about -3. With the camber arms, I was able to set it at -1.5 camber and 0.05 toe on each rear wheel. Four months later I got coilovers and another alignment. It’s been 15k miles, and tires have been wearing evenly despite being lowered 2.25” all around.

I’ll check the alignment details later today and let you know.

So my wheels came with the valve stem hole at the center, but I did not request a secondary valve hole. I would want to get new TPMS sensors but want to know if they can be added to this hole. Are you running your TPMS on the Work original valve hole or the secondary one you requested? Can you link the sensors you got? (Ignore the foot, the photo is from google).

 

[Erick4hun]

If I add the control arms it'd mostly be for aesthetics. Basically have a full PRL & RV6 build, and RV6 has the control arms so why not? Lol

Since I'm thinking that I don't want to mess with camber or coilovers I think I'll be going with 18x8.5 +45 245/40R18 (attempting to get the max amount of rubber on the ground without camber adjustments).

Thinking these Rays MID R26 with PS4S or ECS02 tires (I think they're ~18lbs vs the stock 28.2lb):

Nice rims. OEM wheels come at 18x8 +50 if I'm not mistaken, so you should have no problem running 18x8.5 +45. Your new wheels will be poke about 1/2" more than OEM, but you will still be tucked in the fender. If you plan on sticking to OEM suspension, you'll have no problems with rubbing.

 

[MERAKIAUTOWORKS]

That should be good, we do coilovers with rear camber arms. Sometimes front ball joints as well.

-Josh

 

[JC-RH]

So my wheels came with the valve stem hole at the center, but I did not request a secondary valve hole. I would want to get new TPMS sensors but want to know if they can be added to this hole. Are you running your TPMS on the Work original valve hole or the secondary one you requested? Can you link the sensors you got? (Ignore the foot, the photo is from google).

The part number is 42753-T3R-A04.

You can add them to the existing hole. In my case, Work VS-XX has a fancy metal valve stem, and I wanted to retain that look. That’s the reason why I requested a secondary hole to hide the OEM rubber valve stem which is connected to the sensor.

 

[Erick4hun]

The part number is 42753-T3R-A04.

You can add them to the existing hole. In my case, Work VS-XX has a fancy metal valve stem, and I wanted to retain that look. That’s the reason why I requested a secondary hole to hide the OEM rubber valve stem which is connected to the sensor.

Ah I hear what you're saying now. I did some research; Some shop can add that second hole if I want to proceed that route, but Work also provided adapters for the center valve holes that can hold the TPMS sensors. I've even seen an option to add TPMS bands which will also hold them. Different options available, I'll see what I steer to when I get new tires.

 

[JC-RH]

Yes, those are all options. Also, I wanted to confirm my current camber is -1.5 and toe is still 0.05.

 

[Erick4hun]

Yes, those are all options. Also, I wanted to confirm my current camber is -1.5 and toe is still 0.05.

Thanks for that info. I'll keep you posted on those modules

 

[slowcountry]

Check out 27WON on the front strut too. They're the only ones I've found that have a master cylinder brace (if you want one), and it integrates with their front strut.

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