Happy TG! Which ones are permanent or current, and the can network ones might be when you had the module disconnected but ignition on. Or PM me the report so I can have the full scan
I’m away from my work computer so won’t be able to do much, but for shits and giggles.. to rule out any stupid setting preventing you from initializing your sensors. Do a vehicle setting’s reset from the radio
When testing the rear make sure all connectors and module is disconnected at all components, same when testing the front sensors.
Right Rear Corner Sensor Connector:
3: is your communication line (have 1 test lead connected here and the other at right rear center sensor connector #2, Ohms...
For the rears try placing the cars in reverse and see if you get the 12v while using the ground (16). next step might be tedious, but you gotta check out each individual sensor and see if they’re getting the 12 V to be sure
edit: I dont see any indication whether the sensors are ground switched...
If there's no data being transmitted when you move something closer or further away then I would verify power and grounds at the module and then at the individual sensors.
As an added check I would verify the connection from the sensors to the module by Ohms checking the wires, just to rule...
B2600-54 is parking sensor not initialized, try doing the rest on the parking module:
EDIT: just saw your other thread. Can you try erasing the code and seeing if it’s selectable? If not I would go into the data list in the module and see if all sensors are providing data
Interior Trim Area File it will be listed as "AC" in the diagram
EDIT: realize the file doesn't look as easy to read as the online format lol, but if you scroll down you'll see it under the AC sub procedure. Ill attach a picture for your convenience
If it was before the TSB which is now partially the recall. Your steering rack was replaced with the same spring and no additional grease in the worm gear, which was the same cause of your first sticky steering bad steering rack issue. It was just a matter of time for it the begin again. The...
Since I had both on hand, here is the outside appearance between the Honeywell/Fram (15400-PLM-A02) vs the Mahle Filter (15400-RTA-003).
15400-PLM-A02 is made in the US
15400-RTA-003 is made in Japan
Mahle filter on the left, Fram filter on the right
Last photo is a close up of the Mahle...
Even if it was the actuator again..some how.. the part should be covered under a parts warranty (1 year) even if the vehicle itself is not covered under warranty.
You are still well within your warranty period, why are you not trying to get a free replacement lol? Only thing that MIGHT deny the warranty is the lowering springs but that’s a stretch.. regardless suspension noise can be a pain to diagnose and could lead down a rabbit hole of parts. I would...
There is you would need a vacuum/pressure gauge like this to be able to apply pressure and vacuum at the different bypass solenoid ports. You would also need a bi-directional scanner to be able to active it a couple of times to see if you can get it to stick (if it is in fact sticking). Without...
Wastegate actuator isn’t a separately sold part by Honda, it’s replaced with the turbocharger as an “assembly”. So that should be ruled out. Lose/ripped hose, either a sticky bypass solenoid, ripped bypass valve, intercooler issues. Never seen a harness be an issue unless you have rodent damage...
Like the unlock/open button on the lift gate .. how did that happen lol? Only way would be the key fob since there is no physical button in the inside of the car. If not then it can be opened with a bi-directional scanner, unless the lock actuator itself failed
Poor typing, meant to say “most non-ITS’s see” since it affects all civics/integra’s that are non-R/non-ITS. ITS’s use a different rack and motor