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Type S has front tow hooks, but they’re not on the front of the vehicle. They’re on the underside and only meant for flat surface towing. You would have to fabricate something. From the service manual:

18mm is for the CVT transmission drain plug 20mm is for the manual transmission drain plug For draining CVT or Manual trans fluids for servicing those crush washers need replacing also. The numbers is how they differentiate in the description when you look up the part #. It’s all crush washer...

Forgot to say that crush washers is only for the oil drain plug. 14mm is for the oil drain plug 18mm is for the CVT drain plug 20mm is for the Manual drain plugs 18mm: 90471-PX4-000 20mm: 94109-20000

Yes sir, only 1 washer part number now. Fits all Honda’s/Acura’s

91560-SZW-003

94109-14000 washer, drain plug (14MM)

Crush washers https://a.co/d/fxEdMfn

The crush washer (like the name implies) gets crushed over time. So it thins out, so to compensate, & to avoid oil leaks, you torque it down more each time it’s reused since it’s thinner. Essentially you begin to over-torque it to compensate for the thin crush washer. Will it damage anything...

No, changing wheels and tires DOES NOT affect the alignment. Only speedometer speed accuracy % if changing size from stock

If you want to do it “by the book” the crush washer is suppose to get replaced every oil change. In reality they can be replaced every other oil change (if you aren’t over-torquing the drain plug) and have no oil leak issues, but yes they’re suppose to be replaced every time.

An ECU can be coded and programmed from an indie shop that works with Honda’s and have the diag equipment for it or some auto lock smiths with like a Autel IM- model or something similar of a diag/immobilizer computer/tablet. Honda’s aren’t too extremely complicated when it comes to program and...

Right Axle Auto Trans: 44305T20A51 Man Trans: 4430530H01 Intermediate shaft for Right Axle (if you need that also) Auto Trans: 44500T4PJ00 Man Trans: 44500TBFA00 Same part # between integra and Civic, manual trans uses Si axle’s, auto trans uses Ex/touring sedan axle’s

New ECU will need to be programmed and coded into the vehicle. It is not plug and play. If you connect a new ECU the car will light up like a Christmas tree because of Can bus issues (the ECU not being there). if you had the old one then it could be cloned, but seeing how it’s missing a...

Don’t have an ITS but I do have the OEM CF spoiler and had to have it replaced under warranty. Car had 7k miles. If I have to do it again I will most certainly get it PPF’ed

Why not buy OEM fogs use your aftermarket harness, I would assume the connectors at the fogs might be different in which case find a pigtail connector that will fit and snip it off your aftermarket harness and wire up the correct one. If it already has the same one even better for you, just plug...

Do you have 2 key fobs (meaning one for the vehicle and one for the remote starter)? Or it’s it a single Acura key with the remote starter built into the key fob like the image:

That is the A-spec with Tech CVT with factory remote start, not aftermarket dealer installed remote start did they install an OEM remote starter or aftermarket?

Don’t have an ITS but I do have the OEM window visors and they increase wind noise. That’s not a defect, it’s just what it is, window visors for the most part always increase wind noise. Any claim of a window visor “quieting wind noise” will probably be with the window is cracked open, not closed

I remember there being a plug and play module someone was selling when I had my 10th gen civic. No sure if it still works with the new gen but that was the only way. Might be worth looking into. I believe it turned on fogs with the DRL’s

Figured lol. Can’t say I’ve seen much aftermarket fog light support either, especially yellow fogs (well that aren’t cheap looking)