Search results

I can't help but be amused at this thread. Folks who find fault with the ITS shifter are spending too much time feeling for fault rather than driving. Nothing is perfect, including this shifter, but it's plenty good. Drive and enjoy.

The wastegate flapper linkage is adjustable in some cars, don't know about this one. It is also normal in some cars to have some wastegate rattle when the engine is off boost, as in decelerating. If you only notice it when engine braking, well, brake pads are cheaper than clutches.

If your shifter is a hindrance to consistently being in the right gear at the right time, then you are 100% right to do something about it. Folks approach driving techniques differently, and priorities vary.

Generally true, although some cable shifters are pretty darn good. I guess I've always considered the shifter feel to be an anesthetic issue, as opposed to the feel generated by steering, suspension, tires and brakes, which impact the driver's handling of the car.

My last street/track car was a Porsche GT3 with sport shifter, along with a Z06 two BMW M3s, and two Porsche Caymans. So yes, I have owned and driven several rear drive cars. The shifters in all of them were very adequate. If I focused singularly on the quality of the shifter feel, were any of...

I don’t know your general experience, nor how long you've had the car, so I apologize if this is offensive. This is one of the best factory shifters I've had, and I've had many. Unless something is wrong, it should not need any work. The spring is loaded perfectly for the 3-4 gate, and shifts...

It's way too much for a brief forum response, but it's about balance, steering feel, handling, power application, etc. But, there is nothing wrong with a well put together front driver (as the ITS) for general street and occasional enthusiastic driving. And for the driver who is not quite as...

Yep, and I never thought that I'd agree. With a long history of heel/toe shifting, I can honestly say that I'm good at it. It's so second nature that I still find myself trying to do it without thinking. I turn it off occasionally just to enjoy the shifting. But, in this car the pedals are not...

I've had a long list of German cars, several BMW M3s, 2 Porsche Caymans, one 911S, and one GT3. All were street cars with frequent club track days. At age 75 and long retired, I've quit the track stuff and have reconsidered the car thing. Front drive sucks, period. That said, I am very favorably...

My car has never failed to start, but there is always a delay between depressing the button and the starter turning. I assume it is a matter of programming, although I can't imagine a reason.

It might. I had a Porsche with auto start/stop and, if engaged, when the car stalled it would auto restart as soon as the clutch was depressed.

I think the issue is stalling on drive off, so the parking brake isn't engaged. (If it is, then you've found your problem!)

It will start. Depending on circumstances, you might not want to stop the car before starting it. If rolling in the right direction, just depress the clutch and start it.

It's not necessary to engage the brake if the clutch is depressed.

Congrats on the new car. Mine is the same color. I have a long history with high performance cars, and my opinion of front drive is brutally negative. That said, this is the best front driver that I have experienced, which is almost a positive review! I probably will not keep it long term, but...

In a car this new, cupping would likely result from balance or alignment issues, not suspension component wear. I believe your dealer exhibits either integrity or competency issues. I would take the car to a well regarded tire or alignment shop for evaluation.

I don't do any track events since retirement, but I was active in it for over 10 years. From that experience, I will share some general observations. Assuming a competent car (such as the ITS), most drivers will be well-advised to do nothing to the car for at least the first season of driving...

Forced induction will cause oil contamination more than NA. If the Sport + setting operates as I think, it should have no effect on oil contamination. The higher compression of driving under high boost is more likely to cause it. Also, the combustion properties of different gasoline will vary.

I'm sorry if I'm not following. I admit that I'm having my second bourbon. Are you say that the estimate for a rear brake job on a Civic was $4,200?

Drive a Porsche for a few years and you will have a different perspective of dealer prices! One option would be to keep the front hats and transfer to new rotors. There is a bit of labor involved that needs to be done right, but you could save some money. From your post, I'm not sure that you...