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If you have the stock rear pads with you, put them on and see what happens. There's no reason they shouldn't work with the DTC30 in front, and if they don't then the pads aren't your problem.

I have not driven the Cup2, but the original Cups are awesome wet or dry, as long as there's no standing water. I used them as my track tires until I switched to Hoosiers.

Yeah, you gotta pick your poison, but we've lost two. It's a bigger issue with higher torque cars, but I think the ITS qualifies. I think Cups. Do it and don't look back.

The Toyo R888 is a great, grippy tire, and available in size. It miserable as a street tire, quite noisy, but it sticks. It needs a little heat in it, so maybe not ideal for auto-x, maybe better for track days. I tried to get them for my partner, but it seems they deleted the size for her...

We've had problems with the 660 de-laminating on our race car. Apparently it's a general issue, per the Tire Rack advisor. I went with the 615s for my partner's track car, better safe than sorry.

Has anyone adjusted the clutch pedal to move the pickup point a bit lower?

You'll get a lot of opinions, but I think a 997.1S or 987.1S is a good buy. Theoretically they have the IMS issue, but failures are rare relative the 986/996. (Note: I had a 996.1 in which the motor grenaded due to IMS. New motor, $15k.). I'm trying to get my partner to get one of them...

Dumb question, but you're confident the battery is good? Beyond that, if you have fuel and you have fire, I'd check the timing, all the way around (but cam in particular). I assume from your post you have crank but no start, but forgive me if I misunderstand. That car will be fire when you...

I sold my bugeye WRX Wagon ('02) maybe 12 years ago and I still regret it.

That's good news, and hopefully you're in the clear. With that said, you may have two other issues to look at, if you want to be careful. First, there's probably fuel in your oil, so you may want to change it again. Second, one or more of your spark plugs may be fouled, it might be worth a...

I also hope it was bad batch of gas, but you should take it to the dealer as soon as you can. It could be something simple, like a valve or control in the emissions system, or something more complicated like a failed motor mount, or a more serious engine issue. This is what the warranty is...

Yes, pinned them.

I have a 997.1 GT3 (3.6, non-RS) as my track car (still street-legal). It used to be an amazing road car, but I largely ruined that with my track mods (mostly suspension, but also the carbon buckets and the solid motor mounts). I could use another 100hp, but it is perhaps one-fifth the cost of...

Very sorry about the incident, and the implications for the owner. Glad he's OK.

I'd love to hear if anyone driving any car has ever had a warranty claim declined because of their choice of brake fluid. I doubt it.

I'll most likely be there, and if so would love to take a ride.

I instruct with TrackDaze and have for at least 15 years. If you're solo but want an instructor for a session or two, just ask, they should be able to find you someone.

We had a 944 endurance car that we converted from power steer to manual. We didn't de-power the PS system, we put in a full stock manual rack. It was great on track and (more important) a lot more reliable, but on the 944 the manual rack is about 20% slower ratio than the power rack. That's...

I have the MPSAS4 in 255/35-19, on the stock wheels. I've been happy with them in dry and wet, but have not driven them in snow. I've been a fan of them (and the MPSAS3+) on other cars.

I also have the passenger seatbelt cover buzz. It's annoying, but not debilitating, I'll get it taken care of whenever the car next needs service. I think at this point it can be considered a "common issue", but it's certainly not as serious as the coolant reservoir issue.