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Easy fit, but better if you take out the package shelf first and leave it at home.

I doubt this is the issue, but I would re-torque the lug nuts. It'll take you three minutes and if it fails to solve the problem it's still good sense. I hope it's not something more serious, but at least you're still under warranty. If you want to go further, but the car in the air and twist...

Tldr; stop dropping cars and band-aiding with rear bar. Front bar is what a mcstrut car needs. I'm not sure that's right for a FWD car. For a BMW or a Porsche it makes sense, and you can happily three-wheel through corners, but I think with FWD a stiffer front bar is going to cost you...

Cruise can be switched from adaptive to standard.

OK, thanks folks. I guess mine is not broken. I don't like it, but if that's how it works so be it, I'll just get used to it.

Thank you for your perspective. To clarify, I don't use adaptive cruise, only standard cruise. That might make a difference, mine definitely cancels with the brakes. My issue is that it doesn't cancel with the clutch. I've never seen that, including a fistful of manual Hondas with cruise...

Forgive me if this is a stupid question. I've always used cruise control, obsessively, mostly as a way to keep me from speeding (too much). Every manual car I've had with cruise control cancels it if your tap the brakes (obviously) or the clutch (less obvious, more to my question). My ITS...

If you run the 981S out in second gear, you're doing 80-something. Not that many places I want to do that (aside from the track) (but I do). It's annoying. But otherwise it's awesome, super fun and easy to drive. I may lose it if my partner decides to make it her track car (she currently...

I had an AP1 S2k for a dozen years, great car. A friend recently bought one and I drove it, still great. I replaced it with a 981S Boxster, which I still drive. It is awesome, with two exceptions. The gearing sucks for everyday driving (too long for the street, but great for the track), and...

One can't compare front and rear spring rates on this car. The front is coilover strut and the rears are attached to the LCA. That gives them less leverage so they have to be stiffer, despite the front weight bias. Equal front-and-back makes little sense to me, whether for street of track. I...

No shade on the ITS, but I still miss the Mk6 GTI I sold when I got it. Likely I'll pick up a Mk5 when I find one for a decent number locally. Great car, so useful, and so bright when you get on it. Never should have sold mine.

I have the Acuity piece. I think it's better than stock, but it does raise the pedal a bit too much for my taste. I have it in the middle position, and I get a bit of ankle fatigue on longer drives. But it's a quality piece, relatively easy install (20 min for me, not as flexible as I used to...

I agree with this. I have ruined multiple awesome street cars turning them into awesome track cars. My current track car is street-legal and almost undriveable off track. Damn shame, it was an amazing road car when I got it.

As said above, a cheap temp gun is your friend. You can check temps on the inner, outer, and middle (as soon as you get off track) to assess whether you have your pressure and camber correct. With that said, it's FWD, so you have to pick your poison. Either you'll have push, or it's going to...

I'm sure that won't be fun to sort. It sounds like either a lower control arm nut is not adequately tight, or the bushing is shot. (The latter should not happen with a new car.) It happens on BMWs, and those also use MacPherson struts. It could also be a CV joint, but I doubt that would...

If one wanted to defeat it, it's not likely difficult. Just pull the switch and jump it, or better yet put a toggle on the wires and mount a hidden kill switch. I don't see the need on this car, but it's very handy for off-road vehicles, to prevent roll-back.

Looks like NoVA_Teggy made it into Car and Driver: https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a60758404/fastest-readers-2024-lightning-lap-track-day-vir/

They do get noisier and a bit stonier with miles and time, but I've found the comparable Pirellis and Contis to be worse in that regard. Particularly the Pirellis.

If you're using DOT5 fluid, it really should be changed once a year, as it takes on water more readily than DOT3. With that said, I'm pretty lazy about it. If you're bleeding it frequently you should be able to change it less often.

I don't really know, so call this a guess: I wouldn't make a habit of using stock pads on the track, they just won't last. I think the combo you have is fine for now, but I think DTC60 front and DTC30 rear is probably better, if you're OK with switching pads before and after every track...