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Trailer Hitch?

BKK Jack

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I have. I entered my VIN and hit submit and...nothing happens. When I click the help link, I'm told I'm not authorized to view that page. Tried on FF, Chrome, and *gasp* Edge and the exact same thing doesn't happen.

I'll probable end up "toning it out" with a multimeter, but I'm not looking forward to taking everything apart again to get it done. I also need to investigate my harness a bit to see how much I can cut off it.

It's this one, a T-One TK48VR

tk48vr_7_1000.jpg


I don't know if there is any circuitry in those little rectangular boxes. They seem awfully big to just splice 2 wires together. The same company also has this one (for the 2023 HRV) that has straight wires from the module to the tail lights. That leads me to believe I can cut them off.

71iqVceLvBL.jpg
 

submitaweasel

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That's too bad the links don't work.

Those boxes may just be for strain relief but I would not suggest bypassing them without checking for resistors inside due to the fact that the integra has LED lights.
 

BKK Jack

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That's too bad the links don't work.

Those boxes may just be for strain relief but I would not suggest bypassing them without checking for resistors inside due to the fact that the integra has LED lights.
That's exactly what I was thinking and exactly how I was going to test it. Thanks for validating my thoughts.

The second harness I posted is for a 2023 Honda HRV. Honda says it has LED brake lights and none of the connecting wires in the harness has those little boxes. I think I'll be safe, but will definitely check.

I'm beginning to think the main box is just a somewhat elegantly put together string of relays that uses the connections to the various lights as the "trip wire."

If I wanted to take the bumper cover and tail lights off at least 2 more times, I'm confident I could source the proper connectors and pin them myself. I've made my own connectors for my bikes over the years and it's not that hard. Just need to know which pin does what - and were are right back to sitting there with a multi-meter hitting switches and stomping pedals. ;)
 
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submitaweasel

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That's exactly what I was thinking and exactly how I was going to test it. Thanks for validating my thoughts.

The second harness I posted is for a 2023 Honda HRV. Honda says it has LED brake lights and none of the connecting wires in the harness has those little boxes. I think I'll be safe, but will definitely check.

I'm beginning to think the main box is just a somewhat elegantly put together string of relays that uses the connections to the various lights as the "trip wire."

If I wanted to take the bumper cover and tail lights off at least 2 more times, I'm confident I could source the proper connectors and pin them myself. I've made my own connectors for my bikes over the years and it's not that hard. Just need to know which pin does what - and were are right back to sitting there with a multi-meter hitting switches and stomping pedals. ;)
So where does that leave your project? Is it stalled now?
 

BKK Jack

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So where does that leave your project? Is it stalled now?
For at least the weekend. Yesterday, I did all the work at the auto hobby shop at my local military base, so I could use a lift. The only work I have left that using a lift would be very nice is running the power wire from the battery to the back; I'll need to drop at least one cover from under the car. Although using a lift for rest would be nice, I can do it in my driveway, because I don't need to get under the car. My driveway has enough slope to it that I don't completely trust the car wouldn't fall off jack stands and crush me.
 

Smalls

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Just did mine today, definitely had to cut the bumper around the hitch receiver. Wasn't even close to lining up...


IMG_1823.jpg

IMG_1824.jpg

IMG_1828.jpg
 

BKK Jack

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That's too bad the links don't work.

Those boxes may just be for strain relief but I would not suggest bypassing them without checking for resistors inside due to the fact that the integra has LED lights.
I checked resistance across one of the boxes, and there was none. Wanting to be 100% sureI broke one apart. There was nothing inside it except for a junction where the 2 wires going to the "t-connectors" for the tail lights were joined to one. I cut them off and I'm back in business. It's just down to the donkey work of finding out which wire does what.

There are 5 wires going to the tail light.

Ground should be brown or black and easy to find. The turn signals should have different colors for left and right, so then I just need to find the running lights and brake wires. Easy-peezy, if I didn't have to tear the entire ass end of the car apart again.
 

BKK Jack

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So where does that leave your project? Is it stalled now?
I would love to post up that my wiring harness is installed and working and everything is perfect, but I can't. The wiring harness isn't the issue; it's in and working. The problem is I'm a moron.

Installing the harness wasn't easy. Getting the power wire from the battery to the back of the car was really time consuming. Without a lift it would have been exponentially more difficult. The wiring was also a little problematic. The wire colors to the tail light were nowhere close to those in the harness I was installing. I was able to use a test light to sort which wire did what. The other issue was with my chosen method of tapping wires - Posi-Tabs. The ones I took were for 14 gauge wire, because that's what the harness used, but the wiring in the car was either 16 or 18 gauge, so I was a PITA trying to get them to work. In the end, I got it and everything tested to the connector.

Now for the moronic part: The problem is that when I went to pull out, I got all kinds of brake system warnings. Having not touched the brakes I was confused as hell, until I saw the last warning: Parking Sensor Failure. Then I noticed the back-up camera wasn't working, put two and two together and got five, because I'm that stupid. My dumbass forgot to reconnect the cable to the sensors/camera before putting the cover back on.

I'm hoping tomorrow I can remove the two push rivets from the bottom of the cover to get my hand up there to reconnect it. If not, I'll have to take the cover off...again. :(
 

submitaweasel

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I would love to post up that my wiring harness is installed and working and everything is perfect, but I can't. The wiring harness isn't the issue; it's in and working. The problem is I'm a moron.

Installing the harness wasn't easy. Getting the power wire from the battery to the back of the car was really time consuming. Without a lift it would have been exponentially more difficult. The wiring was also a little problematic. The wire colors to the tail light were nowhere close to those in the harness I was installing. I was able to use a test light to sort which wire did what. The other issue was with my chosen method of tapping wires - Posi-Tabs. The ones I took were for 14 gauge wire, because that's what the harness used, but the wiring in the car was either 16 or 18 gauge, so I was a PITA trying to get them to work. In the end, I got it and everything tested to the connector.

Now for the moronic part: The problem is that when I went to pull out, I got all kinds of brake system warnings. Having not touched the brakes I was confused as hell, until I saw the last warning: Parking Sensor Failure. Then I noticed the back-up camera wasn't working, put two and two together and got five, because I'm that stupid. My dumbass forgot to reconnect the cable to the sensors/camera before putting the cover back on.

I'm hoping tomorrow I can remove the two push rivets from the bottom of the cover to get my hand up there to reconnect it. If not, I'll have to take the cover off...again. :(
Oh man what an adventure. That's some misfortune in the final steps.

Everyone makes dumb mistakes sometimes, don't go all Acura CS email on yourself over it. I did a similar thing when fixing the Chinese made "smart washer" with the door connector and I am what most people consider very mechanically inclined.

I'm not familiar with posi-taps. Are they one of those self contained units that doesn't require cutting, stripping splicing and protecting?

Did you test the hitch connector to make sure everything is working?
 

BKK Jack

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Posi-Taps and Posi-Locks are my go to for vehicle electronic work. They are typically very easy to work with and they have a variety of sizes. When working on my motorcycles, I usually add a dab of dielectric grease for good measure, but as clean as it was behind my tail lights, I don't think it will be necessary. I hope it isn't, because I couldn't find my tube this morning. ;) The picture is of a tap. Locks are butt connectors.

_blue_14-16_gauge_Electrical_splice_connector_open.jpg


My final test was at the 4-pole connector the trailer wiring plugs into. It was pretty easy, because it was about 6 feet long. I pulled it around to the driver's side where I could see it and went through the sequence. All good. Tomorrow, I'll test it with the trailer for real. After I replace the trailer side of the connector. The ground in plug is broken.
 

submitaweasel

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Posi-Taps and Posi-Locks are my go to for vehicle electronic work. They are typically very easy to work with and they have a variety of sizes. When working on my motorcycles, I usually add a dab of dielectric grease for good measure, but as clean as it was behind my tail lights, I don't think it will be necessary. I hope it isn't, because I couldn't find my tube this morning. ;) The picture is of a tap. Locks are butt connectors.

_blue_14-16_gauge_Electrical_splice_connector_open.jpg


My final test was at the 4-pole connector the trailer wiring plugs into. It was pretty easy, because it was about 6 feet long. I pulled it around to the driver's side where I could see it and went through the sequence. All good. Tomorrow, I'll test it with the trailer for real. After I replace the trailer side of the connector. The ground in plug is broken.
Definitely make sure to lube when making the butt connection. 😉

I've always soldered or when in a pinch used crimp connectors with a protective heat shrink. Good to hear your project achieved its goal even with the collateral ego damage.

Do you think you can post up a detail of the bumper removal with all the experience you've gathered?
 

BKK Jack

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Definitely make sure to lube when making the butt connection. 😉

I've always soldered or when in a pinch used crimp connectors with a protective heat shrink. Good to hear your project achieved its goal even with the collateral ego damage.

Do you think you can post up a detail of the bumper removal with all the experience you've gathered?
It's already done, just not by me.



It starts at 15:00.

I would add that if you have splash guards that adds one screw in the wheel well and if the dealer installed them be careful that the spring clip that retains that extra screw wasn't installed correctly. It appears the guys who did mine just used it as a backer instead of putting it around the fender liner. I don't know how many times you've dropped bolts/screws, etc while working on stuff, but the sound of it bouncing on the floor is always disconcerting. It's even more so, when it's a brand new car and you really don't know what you're doing.

It takes a fair amount of force to get it off. I'd prefer more threaded fasteners and less clips, but that's how they make things these days. I've proven you can take it off and put it back on alone, but it's really thin and floppy, so it would help to have two people.

Also, and I cannot stress this enough: DO NOT forget to plug the sensors and camera cable back in. It's just one plug right in the middle, staring you right in the face. I really don't know how you could miss it. ;)
 

BKK Jack

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I got it sorted. I did have to take the cover off again to get to it, but only partially. I was able to get it knocked out in about 20 mins, but time was saved by only having to remove one splash guard.

This little episode confirmed 2 of my suspicions.

1. As soon as I realized I had forgotten to connect the cable, I wondered if it had gotten caught between the bumper beam and the cover, because it was a lot harder to line up the holes for the push rivets in the bottom. Indeed it had. Once out of the way, the holes lined up easily.

2. When taking the cover off and putting it back on work from one side around to the other. It especially makes getting it on easier.

After I was done, I took it for a little test ride. No warnings and all the sensors and the back-up camera work. Tomorrow, I'm going to get my trailer down (it's hoisted to the ceiling of my car closet), splice on the new connector, confirm the lights work, and see if one of the 2 draw bars I have work with it. I might even go for a little test tow.

52651247948_3e03bb8ae8_c.jpg
 

submitaweasel

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I got it sorted. I did have to take the cover off again to get to it, but only partially. I was able to get it knocked out in about 20 mins, but time was saved by only having to remove one splash guard.

This little episode confirmed 2 of my suspicions.

1. As soon as I realized I had forgotten to connect the cable, I wondered if it had gotten caught between the bumper beam and the cover, because it was a lot harder to line up the holes for the push rivets in the bottom. Indeed it had. Once out of the way, the holes lined up easily.

2. When taking the cover off and putting it back on work from one side around to the other. It especially makes getting it on easier.

After I was done, I took it for a little test ride. No warnings and all the sensors and the back-up camera work. Tomorrow, I'm going to get my trailer down (it's hoisted to the ceiling of my car closet), splice on the new connector, confirm the lights work, and see if one of the 2 draw bars I have work with it. I might even go for a little test tow.

52651247948_3e03bb8ae8_c.jpg
Glad you got it done quickly. I know your feelings on the full removal of the bumper.🤣

Serious question: what's a car closet?

Also, how much weight are you towing? Are you worried about the clutch?
 
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