Type S Shift points

[jaypinto]

Hi all,

Just curious what rpm you guys usually shift at? For 1st to 2nd, I'm usually around 3000-3500 rpm and maybe around 3000 for 2nd to 3rd. What about you guys?

 

[StingertimeNC]

6000 RPM across the board!

Ha ha, no, I short shift 1st, and usually even second. After that it's game on. of course depends on if I'm driving for fun, or just running to the store or something.

On the track I shift at around 6k, if memory serves, after 6k power starts to taper off.

 

[nix6speed]

On the track I shift at around 6k, if memory serves, after 6k power starts to taper off.

I've never understood this mindset on any platform. Unless the power falls off a cliff you need to be thinking about where your RPMs are in the next gear. Short shifting by 1000 RPM means you're starting the next gear 1000 RPM lower than you would be shifting at redline.

 

[Integra23]

First to second isn't as smooth as the other gears. I have had a grind issue twice, im always cautious. Shift 3000 to 4500 in my normal commute unless entering an on ramp...

 

[StingertimeNC]

I've never understood this mindset on any platform. Unless the power falls off a cliff you need to be thinking about where your RPMs are in the next gear. Short shifting by 1000 RPM means you're starting the next gear 1000 RPM lower than you would be shifting at redline.

Keep in mind those Dyno graphs are all in a single gear, not showing what happens to the boost level when you shift from 2-3, and 3-4. The idea of short shifting is to keep the boost level flat as possible, or as close to the peak as possible.

I can't honestly say that it's the absolute fastest way to accelerate on this platform, but on my previous platform, we had to shift about 800-1000 rpm short of redline, in order to maintain max boost, with no dropoff.

Just for giggles, see the attached log from my ITS. (JB4 Piggyback tune) You can see the Pedal position (gas pedal) go from 100% to 0%. And you can see the boost drop just for a bit. That's the shift point. The "time stamp" is not seconds , but fractions of seconds, so this is all happening very fast. The "rpm" shows the engine speed when I let off the pedal, and what rpm the engine is at when I'm back on throttle, then you can see how quickly the boost builds again.

The ecu_psi column is what the ecu is asking for in terms of boost. The "target" column is what the JB4 is asking for on top of the ECU boost.

The "boost" column is total boost, including the extra 4 psi.

The very last column, "speed" is actually the speed your traveling.

This log is to determine if everything is running correctly. Cool thing about the JB4 is you can pull logs automatically, and email them to be reviewed. They will tell you if anything is off. Typically if something is not running right, the engine will pull timing. Columns labeled ign 2, Ign 3, Ign 4, will show timing deviations. If you have bad gas, or not enough fuel, or too low octane for this level of boost, the readings will show numbers, which is timing deviation. When they read all zeros, things are running great.

Lots of info, and I am not an expert in reading these logs, but from time to time I will send logs to the tuners for review.

JB4 also allows boost by gear, so if you want to dial it back in first gear or second gear you can.
Also they have a Valet map which significantly reduces boost. All controlled right on your phone.

Map 0 is stock
Map 1 is +3lbs of boost
Map 2 is +4lbs of boost, etc.

There are more options, but you need mods like Intake, downpipe, extra octane, like E30, E40, larger intercooler, meth injection, etc., to run higher maps without pulling timing.

JB4 does not override any of the stock ecu safety parameters by the way, it also scans for and resets engine codes, Like if you had a misfire, etc.

For a plug and play solution it is great. JB4 is a very solid option for those that don't want to flash tune.

TLDR: shift early to maintain peak boost/flat torque curve as you move through gears.

View attachment P92_M2_R1_231024_172923.xlsx

 

[creaturemachine]

Niki said it best...

 

[StingertimeNC]

^^^^probably naturally aspirated car, LOL!

 

[ChromaPop]

Personally I shift at about 2,800 RPM's until the engine is warm, then shift anywhere I feel like depending on mood, road and drive mode after that. I still haven't shifted beyond 6,000 yet though.

 

[ST675R]

I shift anywhere I feel like. Am I carrying groceries or a car full of passengers? Or am I pulling hard from a turn and ignoring the speed limit?

 

[dockleryxk]

I'm glad you asked, it's interesting to see how everyone does it.

Here's how I do it:

• Until I hit four bars on the temp gauge, I short shift as much as possible without lugging the engine
• Typical cruising: same as you, pretty much. I'm somewhere around 3k-4k, it just feels "right," but try to short shift a bit in first, more like 2.5k to 3.5k
• Spirited driving: 4k-6k
• When I've had a long day and need to decompress a bit: hello Mr. Redline, how much can we make the wheels spin today?

 

[Kalidas]

Hi all,

Just curious what rpm you guys usually shift at? For 1st to 2nd, I'm usually around 3000-3500 rpm and maybe around 3000 for 2nd to 3rd. What about you guys?

first gear is just to get going, 10mph max. I get started and get into 2nd push to 2-3K max up to max 30mph and then game on. My max push gears have always been 3&4 but while type s is great fun, it does not match the 3-4 of s2k.