List of Honest Acura Dealerships For Type S (MSRP vs Markup List -- Integra Type S)

[ibe121]

Hopkins Acura of Redwood City $19k adm. they trying to undercut the $20k dealers. Haha…..Man this sucks!

Last week they just quoted me $10k for the ADM. Marin quoted me $7,500k and the guy at Hopkins said they'd match Marin if I could prove it. So, I sent him the screenshot of the email from Marin and he said they'd match. Interesting to see them go from $19k to $7.5k in a matter of months. Still sucks to be dealing with ADM's but I guess that's progress.

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[nix6speed]

I mentioned I was local and wasn't willing to pay an ADM but could do accessories or service at a lower amount. The salesperson didn't sound interested. Think she said it arrives 8/27.

I don't have a color preference other than not wanting black because my current car is and they're a pain to keep clean. Will keep looking.

A different person at AutoNation called me today asking about following up. Mentioned I wasn't interested in paying their $7500 markup but could do accessories. She said they do their own accessories and gave me an OTD price of $57-58k so $1500-2000 for the accessories since TT&L is in the OTD price. Agree to start at that price point only for her to call me back 30 min later and tell me the sales manager won't remove the markup. Aren't car dealer games fun? ?

I called others out of state today and will get a spreadsheet or table going eventually.

 

[Emunoz]

So just to update this.
I didn't take the car,.
I could have, it was perfect too, But the numbers were wrong for me at this time.
I need more than $5k down to make this work comfortably.
I could have done it anyway and I am sure it would have been approved, but to live with a high payment for a long time didn't make sense.

Rather than finance 53k, I am going to wait until I can put $30k down and pick one up then.
Id rather finance 28k as opposed to 53,huger difference in everything.

With the OG deal I would paid around 80k for the car with interest and fees by the time is was over, even though I got the car for 58k with all fees. reg, etc.. so I am sure they sold the car to the next guy in line, I wasn't even in line, and they offered it to me, which is why II got so excited, and almost put together a bad deal, I'm glad I slept on it.

anyway, I did set it up so I can buy from them at MSRP when I am ready, and now I have two potential places to buy at sticker when the time is right, probably in Feb 2024.

Or you just pay more to principal and pay it down faster saving interest seeing as you gonna be saving aggressively you could just do that.. rates might be higher when you purchase later on either way. But could drop who knows

 

[2024ITS]

Confirming $5000 ADM at Acura of Berlin in Connecticut ?

 

[Hakmamba]

There are MSRP ITS’ available right now in NJ, definitely worth making the drive down to save a couple thousand. PM me for a referral!

Just a side note, depending on how one is planning to pay for the car, that can adversely affect where one can purchase a car. Just speaking on my real world experience, my CU wont allow out of state purchases, so that can limit ones market availability options. This obvi doesn't apply for those of you who are planning to pay with cash, gold, crypto, Onlyfans or Sugardaddy money.

 

[lumper]

Or you just pay more to principal and pay it down faster saving interest seeing as you gonna be saving aggressively you could just do that.. rates might be higher when you purchase later on either way. But could drop who knows

I went through this years ago, never again.
rather than sign now for terms I don't like and hope to re finance later, I will do what makes me feel comfortable, save up until I have the down payment amount I feel is ap[pppropriate, then I will make a deal.
Running the numbers with 5k$ down was just ridiculous, I would end up paying $80k for the car financing 53k$.

so for me, I will put $25 or $30kdown and finance the rest over 48 months.
I don't like to finance over 48 months for cars and I want my payment manageable so I can double up or even triple up on payments for a while, with the OG terms it wasn't possible.

I would never stretch out a car loan past 4 years, to many factors that can change in that time.
I know some people prefer to put little or none down and claim their money is best in a fund makinmg interest, I personally disagree.

I would rather pay it all in cash, and if I didn't mind waiting I would, but the next best thing is to save up enough that my payments will be under $600 a month and for fewer than 48 months.
that way I can also save up for a house or finance a second car or just double and triple up on my payments for a time, etc.. it gives me options.
"To each, his own."

 

[Hakmamba]

I went through this years ago, never again.
rather than sign now for terms I don't like and hope to re finance later, I will do what makes me feel comfortable, save up until I have the down payment amount I feel is ap[pppropriate, then I will make a deal.
Running the numbers with 5k$ down was just ridiculous, I would end up paying $80k for the car financing 53k$.

so for me, I will put $25 or $30kdown and finance the rest over 48 months.
I don't like to finance over 48 months for cars and I want my payment manageable so I can double up or even triple up on payments for a while, with the OG terms it wasn't possible.

I would never stretch out a car loan past 4 years, to many factors that can change in that time.
I know some people prefer to put little or none down and claim their money is best in a fund makinmg interest, I personally disagree.

I would rather pay it all in cash, and if I didn't mind waiting I would, but the next best thing is to save up enough that my payments will be under $600 a month and for fewer than 48 months.
that way I can also save up for a house or finance a second car or just double and triple up on my payments for a time, etc.. it gives me options.
"To each, his own."

In the end people should only do what fits in their comfort level, however a large downpayment does have its pitfalls (exceeding 10-20%). Factors do come in play such as the rate you are getting and your debt to income ratio. Not passing judgment, i see too often that just because people can buy nice things doesn't mean they can truly afford it if something unexpected occurs. Not trying to get to deep into a finance lesson but there pro's and con's to alot of your thought process from an outsider looking in terms of a Risk standpoint. Just one example is do you know the ramifications of a huge down payment if your car was totaled? Are you considering GAP? Did you pay ADM? Understand the risk and rewards and sometimes its not always about dollars and cents. That's why we still have people in this day and age who choose to use a debit card vs a credit card...or worse..write checks. Money is fungible, don't box yourself in due to comfort, many times its just that one is lacking all the right information to make the best decision for themselves. I personally think you are actually limiting your options by what you are doing, but we can all agree to disagree.

 

[Steve48]

Thanks for taking the time to post this up. I’m from the area, but will probably wait until this craziness dies down. Even when things do simmer down and these cars are selling for msrp or less, this kind of information is good because I would never give any of these reported ADM dealers my business.
Considering the country as a whole is still recovering from the covid mess, and a lot of people are still hurting, this type of business practice is IMO really poor judgment and turns a lot of potential buyers completely off, me included.

That is such a good point, it seems so short sighted to add these ADM's...whatever happened to long term customer loyalty?

 

[optronix]

I'm as little a fan of providing financial advice on an internet forum to strangers as anyone, in fact I'm pretty sure I chased someone off already because he had a habit of doing this... but...

Putting a huge down payment on a luxury car because you have a hard time making payments is the LAST thing anyone should do.

In that situation it just seems that keeping that cash on hand for ANYTHING else is the wise move.

Again, I'm the last person that should be telling people not to overspend on a car, I've done it many times and if it brings you joy it's tough to argue about "worth" as long as your bills are paid and responsibilities met... Just at least do it with eyes wide open, and it's probably better to use someone else's money (i.e., finance) to do it and leave yourself an "out" if things get too hairy (i.e., make sure you at least don't take negative equity in and buy GAP). Dumping a bunch of cash on it means it's GONE. Don't do that on a car that will AT BEST depreciate.

/financial advice over

 

[lumper]

I'm as little a fan of providing financial advice on an internet forum to strangers as anyone, in fact I'm pretty sure I chased someone off already because he had a habit of doing this... but...

Putting a huge down payment on a luxury car because you have a hard time making payments is the LAST thing anyone should do.

In that situation it just seems that keeping that cash on hand for ANYTHING else is the wise move.

Again, I'm the last person that should be telling people not to overspend on a car, I've done it many times and if it brings you joy it's tough to argue about "worth" as long as your bills are paid and responsibilities met... Just at least do it with eyes wide open, and it's probably better to use someone else's money (i.e., finance) to do it and leave yourself an "out" if things get too hairy (i.e., make sure you at least don't take negative equity in and buy GAP). Dumping a bunch of cash on it means it's GONE. Don't do that on a car that will AT BEST depreciate.

/financial advice over

Ok, let me clear this up.
It is not that I can't afford the car or the payments, but I also have other plans and do not want to be paying this loan back over 6 or more years at an amount that prevents me from buying other things or saving more money rapidly.

Anyway, I appreciate your opinions, I have financed cars going back to the early 80's, I am comfortable with making decisions that work well for me and my family.
Sure, I could have taken the car with $5k down and lived with a 980 payment for 6 years, but to me, that is just too much of a monthly obligation while also thinking about buying properties, other cars and just saving for other opportunities.
To each his own.
Matt

 

[Rdrcr]

^^^^
I’m the total and complete opposite. I prefer $0 down and finance for 84 months. Ironically, I end up paying off my 84 month loans in 12-24 months.

Mike

 

[GTO]

That is such a good point, it seems so short sighted to add these ADM's...whatever happened to long term customer loyalty?

Loyal customers are being driven away!

I have purchased three Acuras from the same local dealer over the past 20 years and that includes working with the same salesmen for nearly as long. Over that time, I came in for parts, tires and service and when I did, I stopped to chat with my sales guys and look at the new models.

Most of those conversations were about when will Acura finally produce something that’s as fun as my 6MT TSX. Obviously, the ITS is the answer and I went in early on thinking it would be no problem for me to reserve one at MSRP. However, this dealer insisted on a $5,000 ADM and would not guarantee my position in line. Meaning if someone were to offer them more for my color preference, it would go to them. At least they were honest about that.

Their best deal for a 20 year customer was $3,500 ADM in addition to accessories they sell for two to four times over MSRP. My personal favorite being the $80 sun shade which has an installed price of $252.

I’m more about honesty and loyalty than getting the best price but I refuse to pay ADM especially when MSRP is already so exaggerated and profitable. I contacted several other dealers with my simple offer of MSRP, taxes, tags and dealer fee. Thankfully, a nearby dealer agreed and I now have a deposit on an ITS due to arrive in September.

The local dealer has lost this sale and all my future business as I have no intention of setting foot there again.

This new car purchase also made me take a closer look at insurance rates. I’ve had Allstate since I started driving 37 years ago and my father had been with them many years before that but I decided to get quotes from all the majors.

I was shocked to find that Allstate was at least double what others were charging for the exact same coverage and they were four times more than Progressive. I sent the quotes to my Allstate agent who replied several days later saying they could not do any better. Bye Allstate and hello Progressive.

Neither valued my customer loyalty at all so I left. Good reminders to know your worth and go where it's appreciated.

 

[2024ITS]

^^^^
I’m the total and complete opposite. I prefer $0 down and finance for 84 months. Ironically, I end up paying off my 84 month loans in 12-24 months.

Mike

Interesting ?
I’m wondering why the concept of an 84 month loan, then paying it off so soon. I would think you would lose more money that way

 

[Rdrcr]

Interesting ?
I’m wondering why the concept of an 84 month loan, then paying it off so soon. I would think you would lose more money that way

Depends on the loan, loan structure and surprisingly, even state law. But, in my state, there are no pre-payment penalties. You only pay interest on the loan for the amount of time the loan is active, not the full term finance charges. The only drawback is that the longer term (72 to 84 months) typically has higher interest rates. However, until recently, most of my loans have been 0-3% and that's basically free money. Rather than tying up my money in a large down payment, I would prefer having my money earning larger amounts of interest elsewhere.

Mike

 

[Hakmamba]

Interesting ?
I’m wondering why the concept of an 84 month loan, then paying it off so soon. I would think you would lose more money that way

TLDR: Risk Vs Reward

Example of a 100K car (no tax or regis used) and you had 60K in hand, not 600K disposable

A. 84 month loan for all 100K at 3% = Approx $1300 a month, Total Cost $111,000 ($11K in int)
B. 36 month loan for 40k at 2% 60K down = Approx $1150 a month, Total Cost $101,200 ($1.2k in int)
C. 36 month loan, 0k Down at 2% = Approx $2850 a month, total cost $$103,000 (3K in interest)

Even though your rate is higher with A, you have 60K in your pocket you can do as you please. One can do alot with that money in a 6-7 year time frame vs a 3 year, such as pay down other high interest things like Credit cards, mortgages, S&P 500 or invest in dogecoin (jk) or other products yielding higher %.

Very similar to how one pays back a Credit Card (which is a line of credit), one might owe $1000 (having $1K in hand) and make minimum payments, and one has to pay interest. Or alternatively pay more than the minimum and or all the balance.

In the end:

A. Having a long term loan gives you flexibility with potentially more opportunities, and less exposed risk (no dp). Yes it does require more involvement, and for the life of the loan to maturity will cost the most in terms of interest

B. Having a lower payment, and shorter term with no flexibility (60K down), and inherent dangers of theft or total loss. This is very much the old way of thinking when rates were Extremely high back in the days. However it will yield the lowest interest owed overall.

C. Having a high payment, but no DP means one still has the flexibility to do whatever they want with that cash in hand.

With the above poster, by choosing A over C, one can have the lowest $ payment amount without any Down Payment, which can free up $ that can be used elsewhere. There usually is no prepayment penalty by paying it early which is what he did. If your rate is really low, one has the ability or the "opportunity costs" to free up money to use it however one pleases. Assuming your lender will lend you that amount. Option A, is more common than those of B or C from the industry. Rates change so fast nowadays there is no diff from 36-72 months, in the end its about expanding your window to lower you risk. If not forced to put a DP (by lender) then I would highly avoid ever putting anything down, you literally can turn around an pay it in anytime. I'm pretty sure this would be a more interesting topic to those FL5 buyers because of the ADM's and the Loan Value component. Not sure how this turned into another finance topic lol.

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