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Yeah I hear you. I love my ir air tools, so I spend a lot of excuses on errands to Northern tool. It's also around the corner from me, so I love it. Here's the kit I bought. Very solid. https://a.co/d/cF0pctu

I used a 1/4" ratchet with a short impact socket. You can bend the hard line part back slightly (not a ton). Even easier is a standard metric Allen with a ball end. Then you can break it loose and angle around to loosen all the way. I bought some nice Allen's off Amazon that are stainless steel...

Typically per body panel you're looking at 700$ for proper sand, blend paint, clear. For a pearl paint or a fancier metallic color add 200$. (that's a per panel cost) Like others mentioned if you have ppf you'll pay to take it off and put new on. If you have ceramic on it make sure the shop...

This is a diagram of how it looks. (found it a few days back on civicx somewhere). Hopefully that helps visualize. When you turn the piston clockwise it compresses back, equivalent to turning the piston shaft attached to the motor clockwise.

In my case it was out pretty far. Far enough that no compression would make it move enough to put on fresh pads and rotors. My case just really sucked between crappy wording and me being in a rush to make it go back to normal mode while off the rotors and pads. No the epb is not being ignored...

I bought mine from fcpeuro a while back, but any kit like this chinazon one will work...

@optronix how many miles do you have on it? My borla was droney and a bit too loud the first few hundred miles, but after a track day break in and a thousand miles, it got way better. In comfort it's fairly stock like when just cruising now.

Out of a camry engine too. I'd love an emira, but knowing me I'd tear it apart and turn it into a racecar within a few months and it's just too cool of a car for that today. Lotus has the best steering and shifting in the business though. I wish we had more exige cup cars that came to the US.

Yes, I got it to wind back with the scan tool, but the piston only partially retracted. I just don't recommend that method, because it seems inconsistent and slow. It also has the potential to land you in a position where the motor won't go back to "normal" position if anything is wrong... Then...

The ds2500 have no angled part. It's just all pad material, lol. I'm really curious how they'll do! The dba rotors are super nice, though. My caliper arrived this morning, and after getting a pork shoulder on the smoker, I got it all back together and bled. We're back in business!

Underdog is 100% spot on. Source: the 28 wheels and tires in my basement and garage right now. I burn through 2 to 3 sets of tires per year and rotate summers/winters for street on two cars twice per year. I prefer 18s for track use in general because of far more tire availability, better...

Yeah I used a honda/acura specific one too. The issue was it didn't fully retract, so I tried to do it again and it said "you must activate normal mode first" and I hit "yes" instead of cancel. It immediately started driving the piston out. I tried to stop it, but after the command is issued...

This right here... This is how. When you've got enough pad to make it one road trip, you know you've used the life to a decent extent! The rear pads disintegrated on track, even with VSA fully off via pedal dance. 12 sessions and 7800 miles. They really went much, much faster when moving to...

For me it was about having an aggressive car from the factory with backseats that work and a manual. The only options were: FL5 - I find them ugly and I'm not a teenager so that went out fast M3 - getting car seats into the back was tough and ordering one was a process. Ultimately it was numb...

Green is what happens to carbon during oxidation. Typically this is from uv and water exposure, and when a poor quality resin is used which doesn't have uv protection as part of the resin. Since jogon claims to use prepreg this would indicate their source material was of lower quality or...

Well after some scouring it appears the rear pad numbers are: Dp82402 for ebc Fcp5086 for ferodo Ap1878 for Porterfield

That's fantastic. Thanks! I think 20-30% might be ideal, so that's well in range.

I have considered going to a motul trans fluid. Sometimes that can help with synchros, but usually it's weight related. I'd expect with heat as the oil thins that synchros would be happier, but if the oe fluid is really atrocious it might be getting too thin. I'm coaching some people later this...

Have you tested it? Can you widen the side to side gear spacing with it?

I did run the Cobb 93 tune this weekend. Car was fast and no issues on track. Engine was rock solid, temps were rock solid (even in a very humid 87F day), but the shifter linkage solved nothing about the 3-2 grind. Still coming up to hairpins you have to be patient about slamming it into second...