Front & Rear Dashcam with battery pack

[debianx]

So I'll be installing a 2ch VIOFO A229 plus dashcam and Powercell Dash Cam Battery Pack into my ITS soon, still need to gather some parts. Blackboxmycar.com recently did an install into a 24 ITS and in their video they recommended to use either a 20 or 30 amp fuse with an add-a-fuse adapter. Here's a link to their YouTube video:

Looking at the fuse diagram in the car and at fuses themselves, I noticed that I have a 20 amp fuse installed in slot 16 which for a sunroof that our cars don't have. I know if we had a sunroof, it would only work while the car is turned on, so in essence I should be able to use this fuse for hardwiring the battery pack. Anyone see any reason why this would not be case?

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[jnotguilty_21]

I need that! Which model is that exactly?

 

[debianx]

I need that! Which model is that exactly?

In the video it's the Thinkware U3000 2 ch. dashcam. I have the Viofo A229 plus 2ch.

 

[RamVA]

Can you just test it with a volt-meter?

It might be helpful to look at the wiring harness/coupling for the sunroof cars and compare it to yours. Then you can figure out where you would have to wire it in.

 

[lumper]

So I'll be installing a 2ch VIOFO A229 plus dashcam and Powercell Dash Cam Battery Pack into my ITS soon, still need to gather some parts. Blackboxmycar.com recently did an install into a 24 ITS and in their video they recommended to use either a 20 or 30 amp fuse with an add-a-fuse adapter. Here's a link to their YouTube video:

Looking at the fuse diagram in the car and at fuses themselves, I noticed that I have a 20 amp fuse installed in slot 16 which for a sunroof that our cars don't have. I know if we had a sunroof, it would only work while the car is turned on, so in essence I should be able to use this fuse for hardwiring the battery pack. Anyone see any reason why this would not be case?

So I'll be installing a 2ch VIOFO A229 plus dashcam and Powercell Dash Cam Battery Pack into my ITS soon, still need to gather some parts. Blackboxmycar.com recently did an install into a 24 ITS and in their video they recommended to use either a 20 or 30 amp fuse with an add-a-fuse adapter. Here's a link to their YouTube video:

Looking at the fuse diagram in the car and at fuses themselves, I noticed that I have a 20 amp fuse installed in slot 16 which for a sunroof that our cars don't have. I know if we had a sunroof, it would only work while the car is turned on, so in essence I should be able to use this fuse for hardwiring the battery pack. Anyone see any reason why this would not be case?

grab a multimeter and test to see if you have current when the ignition is off or not.
I am about to do the same install for the A329 with a power4cell 8 and an ssd.
I have never done one though so I am a little intimidated by all of it.
Did you get yours done?I ordered the 329 with a 4tb ssd, a 512 sd card and a powercell 8 battery pack, plus the hk4 hardwire kit,. and some other accessories too.

 

[lumper]

So I'll be installing a 2ch VIOFO A229 plus dashcam and Powercell Dash Cam Battery Pack into my ITS soon, still need to gather some parts. Blackboxmycar.com recently did an install into a 24 ITS and in their video they recommended to use either a 20 or 30 amp fuse with an add-a-fuse adapter. Here's a link to their YouTube video:

Looking at the fuse diagram in the car and at fuses themselves, I noticed that I have a 20 amp fuse installed in slot 16 which for a sunroof that our cars don't have. I know if we had a sunroof, it would only work while the car is turned on, so in essence I should be able to use this fuse for hardwiring the battery pack. Anyone see any reason why this would not be case?

Did you pop off the plastic right under the steering wheel where the fuses are listed as shown or was it behind a different panel?

 

[Er34er34]

Did you pop off the plastic right under the steering wheel where the fuses are listed as shown or was it behind a different panel?

Fuses are just exposed, to the left of the steering, with the OBD port.

 

[Er34er34]

So I'll be installing a 2ch VIOFO A229 plus dashcam and Powercell Dash Cam Battery Pack into my ITS soon, still need to gather some parts. Blackboxmycar.com recently did an install into a 24 ITS and in their video they recommended to use either a 20 or 30 amp fuse with an add-a-fuse adapter. Here's a link to their YouTube video:

Looking at the fuse diagram in the car and at fuses themselves, I noticed that I have a 20 amp fuse installed in slot 16 which for a sunroof that our cars don't have. I know if we had a sunroof, it would only work while the car is turned on, so in essence I should be able to use this fuse for hardwiring the battery pack. Anyone see any reason why this would not be case?

How did your install go in the end?

I'm curious about the 20-30A fuse suggestion. These cams don't use anything near that level of current. The adapter that comes with the Viofo only puts out 5V 2.4A max(12W). Obviously 20A fuse will make it work but you are effectively bypassing the point of a fuse in case something goes wrong.

 

[debianx]

grab a multimeter and test to see if you have current when the ignition is off or not.
I am about to do the same install for the A329 with a power4cell 8 and an ssd.
I have never done one though so I am a little intimidated by all of it.
Did you get yours done?I ordered the 329 with a 4tb ssd, a 512 sd card and a powercell 8 battery pack, plus the hk4 hardwire kit,. and some other accessories too.

I haven't had a chance to do the install yet. Still debating on whether I want to buy a 2nd radar detector for the ITS. I have a strong feeling that I'll cave, just so I don't have to swap it between cars.

 

[lumper]

I haven't had a chance to do the install yet. Still debating on whether I want to buy a 2nd radar detector for the ITS. I have a strong feeling that I'll cave, just so I don't have to swap it between cars.

I looked at it, pretty straight fortward, except for the rear panels for the rear camera.
I called a few shops near me til I founbd one I liked.
Quoted me 150$ to install it, plus 30$ extra for the ssd cable to the glove box and a battery pack install.
I am going to let them do it, for $200 or less, it is well worth the money to not stress over the panels in the rear that I would have to remove or getting the cables through the hatchback.
I'm going early to talk to the owner, walk through the install and everything I am bringing with me, so we are 100% clear on expectations before we begin.
I know I can do it, but to be honest for that price, it isn't even worth my time.

 

[lumper]

How did your install go in the end?

I'm curious about the 20-30A fuse suggestion. These cams don't use anything near that level of current. The adapter that comes with the Viofo only puts out 5V 2.4A max(12W). Obviously 20A fuse will make it work but you are effectively bypassing the point of a fuse in case something goes wrong.

So, I had mine installed last week.
Install took 2 hours, went smoothly except a few issues.
I have ceramic tint on my car, and the rear window just isn't that clear, not like the windshield.
Not sure if it is the tint job, the tint itself or what, but it does degrade the image quality some in the rear.
But I went with a battery pack so I can run parking mode and not drain my battery.
So far it is working great.
here is a pic of the fuse tap, I'm trying to see which fuse he used, and I can't really tell, I didn't feel like unplugging it to check, they say to use a 20-to-30-amp fuse though in the manual.

 

[Er34er34]

I did my own install, there is a 12v as well as switched ACC 12v available in the mirror area, that is what I used instead of using fuse taps to run the Viofo hardwire kit.

The rear hatch part was definitely the most time consuming though but was a good learning experience. If I had to do it again, I think I could probably get the rear camera wire through the headliner instead of under the weatherstripping along the doors. It should be quicker and no need to open as many panels.

 

[lumper]

So I'll be installing a 2ch VIOFO A229 plus dashcam and Powercell Dash Cam Battery Pack into my ITS soon, still need to gather some parts. Blackboxmycar.com recently did an install into a 24 ITS and in their video they recommended to use either a 20 or 30 amp fuse with an add-a-fuse adapter. Here's a link to their YouTube video:

Looking at the fuse diagram in the car and at fuses themselves, I noticed that I have a 20 amp fuse installed in slot 16 which for a sunroof that our cars don't have. I know if we had a sunroof, it would only work while the car is turned on, so in essence I should be able to use this fuse for hardwiring the battery pack. Anyone see any reason why this would not be case?

I had my Viofo A329 installed last week, I think the guy used the wrong fuse.
Can you tell from this image if this is wrong, which did you use?
16# the sun roof fuse?
Did that work?
I am connecting a powercell 8 battery pack for parking mode. along with the hk4 hardwire kit, I just need to make sure I am using the correct fuse, as parking mode is not working.

 

[creaturemachine]

How did your install go in the end?

I'm curious about the 20-30A fuse suggestion. These cams don't use anything near that level of current. The adapter that comes with the Viofo only puts out 5V 2.4A max(12W). Obviously 20A fuse will make it work but you are effectively bypassing the point of a fuse in case something goes wrong.

They probably say to choose a high amp circuit because this thing is going to draw current on top of what it's rated for, and the higher amperage ones have more headroom to hopefully not blow anything.

I had my Viofo A329 installed last week, I think the guy used the wrong fuse.
Can you tell from this image if this is wrong, which did you use?
16# the sun roof fuse?
Did that work?
I am connecting a powercell 8 battery pack for parking mode. along with the hk4 hardwire kit, I just need to make sure I am using the correct fuse, as parking mode is not working.

Looks like they used #21 which was unpopulated. Instead of parking mode does it just stay on? That means it's on an unswitched circuit and is drawing from the car battery rather than the camera battery. Grab your meter and see if it has power when the car is completely off. This was so much easier when key-off meant shit stayed off. So many things seem to stay on until you completely exit the car.

 

[lumper]

They probably say to choose a high amp circuit because this thing is going to draw current on top of what it's rated for, and the higher amperage ones have more headroom to hopefully not blow anything.

Looks like they used #21 which was unpopulated. Instead of parking mode does it just stay on? That means it's on an unswitched circuit and is drawing from the car battery rather than the camera battery. Grab your meter and see if it has power when the car is completely off. This was so much easier when key-off meant shit stayed off. So many things seem to stay on until you completely exit the car.

Yes,. I had to swap it this morning for an ACC fuse, now when I turn the car off it does says, parking mode recording enabled, so I know I have it right this time.
Now I just need to figure out the settings, they aren't as intuitive as you might think, at least not to me.

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