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I have read quite a bit about the dual axis front suspension on the S, and it's a very interesting bit of engineering, bringing a little of the dual wishbone to the strut suspension. In reading about it, it seems clear that the factory wheel offset of +60 is important in maintaining the geometry...

There are a lot of tenders/maintainers out there that work fine. I made a mistake years ago with a boat, and left a "trickle charger" plugged up. It trickled the battery to death!

You can Get the CTEK pigtail with both round fittings to go under the pole connection nut, and regular alligator clips. I like the clips better since you can easily change between cars.

I think that having the dealer check it out is a good idea. You might have a battery that needs to be replaced.

It's not going to do anything in that accessory plug unless you turn on the ignition. It needs to be attached to the battery. It works with the acc socket in the Porsche because it is a hot socket.

You probably have a CTEK/Porsche maintainer, not a trickle charger. If so, yes it will work. Use the standard car mode, not AGM. And no, the acc port is not a hot socket, so you need to attach to the battery. I did it yesterday and it works fine. You should verify that what you have is a battery...

Best I can tell, a lithium battery will weigh 10-12 pounds and cost $600-$700. So, you save around 30 pounds, for casual track days in a street car? Doesn't seem attractive to me.

I'm trying to determine the correct mode for a battery maintainer for the Integra Type S, and the variance in information is amazing. Since the S does not have automatic idle stop, I would think the battery is not AGM, but some resources indicate that it is. I might have to get the battery...

You're better off in total cost. My tire and wheel from EZ Spare was $345 with tax and shipping. I had a compact jack kit from a previous BMW, so that was already spent. I'm sure that I have over $500 in the whole thing. But IOM (it's only money).

It does not look like curb damage to me, but it does look like installation damage. As to the fit, is it the same size tire? A narrower tire is going to be stretched.

Yes, this has always been a tricky subject, and the issues vary between states and insurance companies. During my involvement (in NC) I knew of two people who had insurance claims on their primary policies from incidents during HPDE track events. In one instance the claim was paid with no...

Yes, I understand. My point was, during the time I was involved, track insurance wasn't really needed for "schools", as your normal insurance covered you. I'm in NC, and I've been out of it for over 10 years, so things may have changed. For timed events or competition, I think that specific...

When you say track event, I assume you are referring to an HPDE weekend. I've been out of the track stuff for several years, and the insurance issue varies with the state, so check with your agent. In my case, as long as the event was a "school", and not a competition, my regular insurance...

Both. It works with the OE nuts, but they also ship a set. I don't like the ones the send, because they work with a big torx driver socket, and the head is not 22mm, so it's two more thing to keep up with. I didn't actually check the angle of the wheel surface for a perfect match, but i mounted...

This is a spare I got from EZ Spare Wheels. Since it doesn't fit in the well sufficiently to allow the cover to close flush, I just strapped it down. I guess it's the lazy way out, but it works.

I stand corrected. I was just now playing around, and if I stay in the throttle long enough, the light does flash on. It seems to not come on with short, minor intrusions, or I'm just missing it.

That's interesting. Mine seems just the opposite. The dash light comes on when I turn the system down with the button. But when driving, I can feel it engage, but no light.

Are you saying that the light does not come on when you press the button to turn it down, or when it engages while driving?

It is interesting that folks seem to have different experiences with VSA/traction control. Today I was able to determine that under a specific loss of traction, VSA did intervene. I could definitely feel it, but no light came on. I then went through the 3-step process to fully disable it and...

I guess that puts me back where I started, because I don't believe mine has ever blinked with VSA engagement.