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I think you have to be old to afford these things. The previous owner of my car was 72. 😅 I think you might need to remove the rear side-curtain airbags, which means removing the rear seat cushion. It's not actually that big of a deal, maybe 5 bolts and two wiring harnesses. I put some...

I left the hood prop rod in place as a backup in the case that the struts seem like they're going to fail. So far, they seem to be handling the load well.

I hope your recovery goes well! I got a Skunk2 weighted shift knob and a new boot retainer. This thing is so much nicer than OEM.

The geometry and length of the struts that I used means that the struts can’t impart any upward force on the hood until it has opened a ways. When the hood is closed these struts are almost parallel to the ground, when fully open they sit at a 45 degree angle.

The resistance is at its fullest when the hood is completely open, then gradually diminishing as it gets closer to being closed. The last foot of swing you can basically drop it to close the hood. You have to get the hood about halfway open before the struts can hold it up unassisted.

Some kickass dude on a Facebook group posted the part list for recreating the WOT hood strut kit, and it worked like a charm. I posted a thread here: https://www.integraforums.com/forum/threads/diy-short-hood-struts-just-like-wot-but-like-1-3-the-price.62088/

A shining prince named Aaron Kinnunen (with an FL5) posted this parts list on Facebook, so I'm putting it here too. Parts: Lower mounting bracket option 1: https://a.co/d/03bnnnS5 or Lower mounting bracket option 2: https://a.co/d/019nzKeC (I got this one) Hood Struts make sure you select...

Yeah, you could just lean into it and call it the Wheelhopotamus.

Oh man, the things you would need to do to that suspension to keep the front wheels planted.

“Ah man, I think I blew out one of the tweeters under my left testicle.”

I was like “ok, one more sticker.” And I wrapped the center console eyesore in matte carbon fiber. Now my back hurts and I’m kinda angry, but it looks a lot better. It’s not perfect but that’s the enemy of “good enough, fuck this, it’s my third try.”

Stickers! Gotta have some sticker. The “Integra” lettering in the bumper feels like it should have been factory on the white ones. I also tinted the rear reflectors.

That's an incredibly clean install, nice!

I'm tempted to say yes. Look at the diagrams at the top (rear brakes has a separate Type S diagram), the pound-feet torque specs are numbers in parenthesis in the rectangular boxes on the diagram...

I just started 3D modeling and printing shit and I’m starting to think things like “I wonder how many millimeters thick my laptop is.” And then a bald eagle cried out in disgust and fell, dead, into my back yard.

You don't need to use that much Kilmat. There are diminishing returns, and you can get to the point where you're just adding weight without making an appreciable difference to SPL. It's fine, but the knocking method I put in the thread is there for this reason.

I traded in my F150 for my ITS (because I sold my boat - boats suck, don’t buy a boat). Now my easy $20 dump runs are a thing of the past. Sure, I could jam shit in the Rivian but then there’d probably be spiders all up inside of it. Seriously, don’t buy a boat.

How does one own a garage that's not absolutely full of bullshit?

Thanks Mouseketeers!

Why do these downward facing tips make think about a dog hunkering down to take a shit? Am I the weirdo?