Search results

Seafoam is a brand name treatment, but IMHO its more on the useless side of the spectrum of fuel additives. If you use non top tier fuel and are concerned, use a few ounces of Techron concentrate per fill up, and toss a full bottle before a tank before an oil change. If there was an actual...

The issue to me (from sampling 5K runs a few times now) is fuel dilution, it is there on our car and really any DI engine. That's the main reason to have a bit more starting viscosity, especially if you are running extended drain intervals. Note: the tech in todays blends and high quality VIIs...

Dealers (and their service departments) are like a box of chocolates. These cars are not rare, but not overly abundant. If you are set on a specific color combo, you lose leverage so I would be flexible when calling dealers, especially if they have more then 1 on the lot makes it easier...

So you can pick 1 thing to add what is is 1. 15.9 gal tank 2. Seat Memory and auto tilt mirror 3. Homelink Not an easy choice to me :)

Dilution is a bi-product of DI engines, not the sport pop mode. Short trips in general are not great for oil life/extended drain intervals regardless of DI or not. I do a lot of HWY miles, not a lot of short trips, and I have measured dilution after 5K with both of my UOA, not as bad as the...

Its a helical (gear based) LSD, so just MTL. modifiers are for clutch based ones to provide necessary friction for engagement.

Honda MTL is pretty well formulated, even 30 years ago. I will be sticking with OEM when the time comes. If that was not available, I would look at Redline mostly from past experience where it has worked in multiple vehicles for me, which IIRC is simply Redline MTL vs -85 or -90

I only have a few UOA done, but some oils are going to shear quicker than others (and its not a linear equation either, can shear a bit early then be stable for 10K miles, just depends.) That's what I care most about, don't want it going out of grade. SS is a very good base oil , and HPL No...

Dying is strong, but not what they were. The competition is there from Youtube primarily, and FB groups to some extent. I was active in several communities in the past, Miata and Honda, Subaru when the WRX and other forums blew up. VWVortex was a good spot. BMW still has 2 main sites with sub...

Are the rotors *really* in need of replacement. 99/100 a shop is doing it as a package. Every time I have asked for the measured runout of a rotor I get crickets.

As we can see from various % reports and differning mile readings there is an algorithm at play. I do a fair amount of HWY miles so my first OCI was over 10K when it hit 15%. Running it to 0% would likely be 12K+ for my driving needs.

Your ass dyno needs calibration: the oil pressure did not change, the car did not change. :) 5.7 qts and off you go, nothing to over think here. It is challenging with light oil to read on many cars not just this one. Drive 1K, re-check, it should be a tad darker by then.

If you want to hear the spooling more, its muffled by the intake track. Removing the airbox for a cone type filter is the most common thing, though a dealer could raise an eyebrow most won't for just an airfilter provided there is nothing else (but also calls to question is the ECU tuned, are...

No issues parking it...think of all the sports cars in winter climates that don't see a crank for months at a time. I have done so for 2+ months at a time the past 10 years with an extra car. In fact, better to just leave it and not 'start it every once in a while' which causes a bit more harm...

By the book, A its just oil year 1, oil and filter 2. Some dealers eat the $5 and do the filter. B (year 2) has filter and other inspections that are part of any normal annual inspection if your state requires that anyway (PA does) If you are lucky, you will not get the optional overfill to...

From my original response, I have seen more data that support the FF is is the Type 2.0 oil based on its add pack which does include high moly. Its a good oil and I would not have any issue keeping it in there as long as you want for a street application. Given that its not the ho hum Honda...

OK, bit of oil geeking but not going too deep here, that is what BITOG is for. Totally appreciate your posting your experiences @Victorofhavoc , I was a bit cheeky on then notion of a testing agency which I disagree with. Single unit tests that show oil 1 better then oil 2 sure, and that's...

Um, tested by who? Amsoil? :) Not knocking them as their Signature Series (SS) is likely what you are referring to as its their premium product, and excellent: but for the money other small blenders have arguably better products depending on what you intend to use the oil for (long drains, shear...

GDI engines suffer from fuel dilution, just a matter of how much. Short tripping increases this, good long HWY runs helps reduce it. Sample and test at a quality lab is the only way to find out fuel dilution (and the effective viscosity during service) of the oil. No ones schnoz is capable...

I find 3 to be warm, 2 to be fine, 1 to be barely there as far as ass warmers are concerned. Compared to other cars I have sampled (many rentals, owned several germans, have installed aftermarket one sin the day), its certainly weaker and there is no OWW OWW OWW german setting either. This...