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JC-RH

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2004 Mystichrome SVT Cobra
I’m posting this info based on my experience. My goal was to get rid of most of the gap, reduce negative rear camber caused by the drop, and install spacers to give it that nice flush look. This setup is intended to hold me over until new 3pc wheels are delivered.

I have already order a set of 19x9 +33 Work VS-XX wheels with step lip. They should be delivered sometime in Spring 2023.

A couple other members have done the springs, but I haven’t come across anyone with rear camber arms or spacers. Here is what I did and I’m very satisfied with the outcome. Eventually I will probably like to go a bit lower when my wheels arrive.


WHEEL SPACERS (IMPORTANT!!):

I have done all sorts of spacers types and sizes on my previous cars. This one was a bit tricky IF you are planning to use the OEM 18s. I’m not sure about the optional OEM 19s. Usually wheels have a cavity in between the stud holes (when looking from the back side that mounts up to the rotor). Our 18s have those cavities, but the my are a bit shallow AND they are shifted out of the normal stud radius. I initially tried to install 15mm spacers in the front and noticed that the lugs would continue to turn with a bit of pressure but I couldn’t get them torqued. When I finally removed the wheel, I noticed that the CAR’S studs where slightly poking out of the 15mm spacers, and it would come in contact with the edge of the wheel cavity. I then decided to go 20mm in the front, and those additional 5mm helped to reduce the poke of the car’s studs, and I was able to torque the wheel lugs correctly. The rear, being 25mm, had no issues of any type. Keep in mind that our OEM lugs are close ended and a bit on the shallow side, so the studs on the spacers should not be more than 1”. Anything longer and you’ll bottom out the lug before it can be torqued tight. You can, of course, get new longer lug nuts if your spacers happen to have long studs.


REAR CAMBER ARMS:
Do yourself a favor and make sure you have a 17mm ratcheting wrench. The passenger side is a bit easier to work on, but the driver side is very cramped. You’ll thank me later.


ALIGNMENT:
I took it to a reputable high performance alignment shop in my area, and they were able to get everything exactly to factory specs. If no camber arms are installed, expect to be running around -3 degrees of camber. As long as your rear toe is 1/32 in (or 0.05 degrees in) you’ll still be ok, but of course being at -1.5 camber is better for several reasons. The front camber didn’t really change too much after the drop, and the shop was able to zero out the front toe with no trouble.

I am very pleased with the setup, and I have ZERO rubbing even on dips and bumps. I’m effectively running a 18x8 square setup with +30 offset in the front and +25 offset in the rear. The ride is a tad firmer than stock, but still pretty comfortable.



Parts installed:

Eibach Sportline springs
(part # E20-40-036-02-22)

SPC adjustable rear camber arms
(part # 67467)

20mm hubcentric front spacer
(64.1mm hub bore and M12x1.5 studs)

25mm hubcentric rear spacer
(64.1mm hub bore and M12x1.5 studs)
 
Last edited:
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JC-RH

JC-RH

Member
First Name
Javier
Joined
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Location
Miami, FL
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2004 Mystichrome SVT Cobra
Also, wanted to point out my car has 15% ceramic tint all around and 70% on the windshield.
 
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JC-RH

JC-RH

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Here is the Before and After at the alignment shop. Bear in mind I made the SPC camber arms slightly longer than the OEM arms to introduce less negative camber at the time of installation.

26F40476-952C-4182-A403-3ABF5994AEDE.jpeg


EB0CF07F-213E-4A0C-894A-84609FE37B70.jpeg
 
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JC-RH

JC-RH

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Javier
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2004 Mystichrome SVT Cobra
This pic is with no front spacer installed. That stock +50 offset isn’t doing this car any favors!

You can also see where the wheel studs came into contact with the wheels using the 15mm spacers since they were too thin.

F75DD04C-D126-455D-8288-99BEF5423442.jpeg


D7D99112-9451-44D4-AC26-8FFD436003C8.jpeg
 
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JC-RH

JC-RH

Member
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Javier
Joined
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Miami, FL
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2004 Mystichrome SVT Cobra
And one final bonus pic taken a few days after purchasing it. Bone stock and with my wife’s MDX Type-S. The bird’s eye view on the backup camera definitely comes in handy. LoL

F108F98F-6052-4089-B6A5-FB1A328F1A8F.jpeg
 
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RRP RSX-S

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Link for the spacers?

Also if you were to do just the spacers, no drop, would you still need an alignment?
 
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JC-RH

JC-RH

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Spacers are a dime a dozen. Pretty much any would work as long as the correct center bore (64.1) and lug size/pitch (M12x1.5) are selected.

No alignment is needed if you are simply adding spacers. Spacers will just push out the wheel parallel to where they where. Since no angles are changed, no alignment is needed.
 

ChrisPR57

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Spacers are a dime a dozen. Pretty much any would work as long as the correct center bore (64.1) and lug size/pitch (M12x1.5) are selected.

No alignment is needed if you are simply adding spacers. Spacers will just push out the wheel parallel to where they where. Since no angles are changed, no alignment is needed.
What studs did you end up using? Stock? or did you replace the studs as well?
 

Integra23

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Are spacers safe at higher speed? I have only gone 120 or so but I'm sure I will push it well beyond that at some point.
 
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JC-RH

JC-RH

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Javier
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What studs did you end up using? Stock? or did you replace the studs as well?
the spacers I used came with their own built in studs. From what I see and some of the research I’ve done, swapping outstuds on this car is an involved process.
 
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JC-RH

JC-RH

Member
First Name
Javier
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Are spacers safe at higher speed? I have only gone 120 or so but I'm sure I will push it well beyond that at some point.
I’ve used them on and off for 20 years. Never had an issue. Just make sure you torque them correctly.
 

Tegra808!

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I’m posting this info based on my experience. My goal was to get rid of most of the gap, reduce negative rear camber caused by the drop, and install spacers to give it that nice flush look. This setup is intended to hold me over until new 3pc wheels are delivered.

I have already order a set of 19x9 +33 Work VS-XX wheels with step lip. They should be delivered sometime in Spring 2023.

A couple other members have done the springs, but I haven’t come across anyone with rear camber arms or spacers. Here is what I did and I’m very satisfied with the outcome. Eventually I will probably like to go a bit lower when my wheels arrive.


WHEEL SPACERS (IMPORTANT!!):

I have done all sorts of spacers types and sizes on my previous cars. This one was a bit tricky IF you are planning to use the OEM 18s. I’m not sure about the optional OEM 19s. Usually wheels have a cavity in between the stud holes (when looking from the back side that mounts up to the rotor). Our 18s have those cavities, but the my are a bit shallow AND they are shifted out of the normal stud radius. I initially tried to install 15mm spacers in the front and noticed that the lugs would continue to turn with a bit of pressure but I couldn’t get them torqued. When I finally removed the wheel, I noticed that the CAR’S studs where slightly poking out of the 15mm spacers, and it would come in contact with the edge of the wheel cavity. I then decided to go 20mm in the front, and those additional 5mm helped to reduce the poke of the car’s studs, and I was able to torque the wheel lugs correctly. The rear, being 25mm, had no issues of any type. Keep in mind that our OEM lugs are close ended and a bit on the shallow side, so the studs on the spacers should not be more than 1”. Anything longer and you’ll bottom out the lug before it can be torqued tight. You can, of course, get new longer lug nuts if your spacers happen to have long studs.


REAR CAMBER ARMS:
Do yourself a favor and make sure you have a 17mm ratcheting wrench. The passenger side is a bit easier to work on, but the driver side is very cramped. You’ll thank me later.


ALIGNMENT:
I took it to a reputable high performance alignment shop in my area, and they were able to get everything exactly to factory specs. If no camber arms are installed, expect to be running around -3 degrees of camber. As long as your rear toe is 1/32 in (or 0.05 degrees in) you’ll still be ok, but of course being at -1.5 camber is better for several reasons. The front camber didn’t really change too much after the drop, and the shop was able to zero out the front toe with no trouble.

I am very pleased with the setup, and I have ZERO rubbing even on dips and bumps. I’m effectively running a 18x8 square setup with +30 offset in the front and +25 offset in the rear. The ride is a tad firmer than stock, but still pretty comfortable.



Parts installed:

Eibach Sportline springs
(part # E20-40-036-02-22)

SPC adjustable rear camber arms
(part # 67467)

20mm hubcentric front spacer
(64.1mm hub bore and M12x1.5 studs)

25mm hubcentric rear spacer
(64.1mm hub bore and M12x1.5 studs)
So based on your application with spacers installed, a wheel at +35/38 would site pretty flush with the fender? Looking to get 18x9.5 at +35/38….or to be safe 8.5 at +35/38.
 
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JC-RH

JC-RH

Member
First Name
Javier
Joined
Jun 30, 2022
Threads
2
Messages
37
Reaction score
33
Location
Miami, FL
Car(s)
2004 Mystichrome SVT Cobra
A great tool to check fitment options is:
www.willtheyfit.com

You can use my current specs and compare to yours. Then you can use my pics as reference.

OEM wheels are 18x8 +50
235/40/r18
25mm rear spacer
20mm front spacer

Good luck!!
 

Tegra808!

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Thanks! One more thing, so the Eibachs a
A great tool to check fitment options is:
www.willtheyfit.com

You can use my current specs and compare to yours. Then you can use my pics as reference.

OEM wheels are 18x8 +50
235/40/r18
25mm rear spacer
20mm front spacer

Good luck!!
Thanks! One more thing. So the Eibachs and SPC works for the Integra with no issues? Looks like theyre for 10-11 gen civics.
 
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