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How’s the resistance when closing the hood shut?

Very happy with how my system turned out using the s2i v1. Glad to see it’s really taking off for you.

Full focal and audiotec fisher build complete. Gotta sound deaden the doors and all done

User error on my part, as usual. Just needed to be routed more internal and around the track. Simple fix thankfully

Finally got around to installing my F kit w/ the CF caps and upgraded turn signals. Disappointed in the fitment of the CF mirror caps so used my paint matched ones instead. Everything was working fine until I tested the window roll down switch and come to find out the route I went for the mirror...

There is noticeable moisture on the inner (between the vapor barrier) and outer portion (between the door card) of the foam. The foam is damp

im going to re-quote myself as to what the problem/concern is as it seemed it was missed. “The vapor barrier is useless IMO since it’s got holes in it for the wires to come through and the floppy padding just collects moisture as well”. The black padding, that’s outside of the vapor barrier...

im more concerned with the external condensation on the vapor barrier itself. I understand the door will never be waterproof, and that’s by design, but I am worried about if the barrier is sweating or even leaking then mold is more concerning. Especially in high humidity areas like where I live

i know I’m resurrecting the dead here but you linked the Mazda 3 set, is that the one we pic for the Integra? The vapor barrier is useless IMO since it’s got holes in it for the wires to come through and the floppy padding just collects moisture as well. I took the door panels off to wire up my...

I like it a lot. I prefer this shape over tear drop and especially like that the stitching isn’t at my finger tips like the oem one. You don’t need anything else to install it but I opted for an acuity shift collar at the same time to install for ease of removal compared to the oem locker

Sound deadened the hatch and trunk area in prep for new system install in 2 weeks.

cost me less for that shift knob than the side mirror glass did if it’s any consolation, lol

This was my complete parts list for the rear vents. The type R box isn’t “mandatory” but it saves hours of trimming/fitting/hacking up your stock parts JDM parts 83406-TVA-A01ZA 83451-T24-T01ZA 83453-T24-T01 that's the rear cover, air vents and rear duct USDM parts 83433-T43-J31ZA Console...

correct, mugen knob

the wiring for the usb-c kit from Mikstore was not a splitter, it included a new plug that goes to the BCM. That’s the one I used. this one

jDYamoto for the rear vents, rear duct, and rear cover

Pimped out my interior and installed g4werkz rear spoiler. acuity 4 way shifter w/mugen knob Mikstore/OEM+ rear AC vent kit Overland designs Alcantara console cover

@ash those small black speaker harness adapters, which speakers do those go to? I’m assuming if the mids and front tweeters in particular are wired in parallel they would have some sort of 4-way plug, no?

this is what I did, just removed the 4 screws and swapped the upholstered lid. Maybe I missed it being mentioned but the prelude console lid is a soft close lid, my Integra type S one was not. Small thing to consider for those that go the prelude route.

Any update with the helix conductor being possible? No biggie if not, I have the helix URC.1 on the way.