I do not know what FR ACC is. You can test it out with a multimeter or a voltage test pen to see if it's on during ACC.
The amperage on the fuse shouldn't matter if you're using fuse taps. Fuse taps should use two fuses; one for the dashcam, one for the original fuse in the fuse box.
Perhaps...
Only thing I can suggest is maybe double check that your hardwire wiring isn't swapped; ACC wire actually goes to ACC fuse and your constant wire goes to your battery pack
I am not sure how the battery pack is utilized. Mine is just the standard viofo 229 plus with their hardwire kit which will stop the car battery from draining below 11.8V.
For those wondering, constant power is available from fuse positions 19, 20 and 21 on my ITS (Canada). I checked with my fuse voltage tester pen.
Also, the power rail in the fuse box is on the right (passenger) side of the fuses.
"Dealer Prep" of $900 in addition to the Freight and PDI of $2595? If so, that's nuts. PDI should contain the "dealer prep" portion.
You might get a better deal if you finance the car
oh wow. Thanks SilverRocket, for pointing that out to me. However, all the cars I've purchased from Honda/Acura/Lexus with a Lexus coming in highest at 16km. All have been under 10km. I would expect ~20km, not 30-35km.