I did this but with paint (duplicolor shadow chrome) and a spare set of Ali Express center caps. If you go this route, make sure you buy the correct ones. I bought the ones for the MDX which is the same outside diameter but the mounting diameter was way too big to fit into the center cap holes...
I run two Chicco 2-in-1 seats in the back for my 5 and 8 year olds. The 8 year old's seat has the back removed so it's essentially a booster seat now. Honestly any quality seat would be fine.
Victor with the low down!
@ABPDE5 also a good time to clean and ceramic coat the new wheels while they're fresh. Then mount the sensors yourself as Vic suggested.
If it's any solace, the K Tuned is the most "solid" and mechanical of the 3 choices on the market, incrementally so. Either of the kits are a step up above stock though, in terms of overall engagement. You trade off a bit of smoothness in the process but I feel it's a worthwhile trade.
They're very flexible on design and finishes, so if you want to tweak the design a little (or a lot), the sky's the limit!
They recently released floating center caps, I'd recommend getting a "Type S" set.
These wheels, they're made to spec so you can have them built to whatever dimensions you'd like.
https://www.vtforged.com/store/p172/RS-L-FORGED-MONOBLOCK-WHEELS.html#/
Very valid concerns, I initially had the similar concerns but I took the plunge anyway, because YOLO. I know our region isn't known for glass-smooth roads but overall I haven't had many issues and generally avoid steep inclines and steep parking lot entrances.
I did run a 275/35 initially...
Do you plan to lower and also are you dead set on 18"? I agree with Optronix that the scrub radius concern is fairly negligible in day to day driving.
FWIW if you're looking to run a square setup, 10" +40 is juuuuust about dead flush as far as the wheel goes, as is 9.5" +35. The rears *might*...
Alright so I actually read the previous comments this time instead of sprinting through them and answered a lot of my own questions.
This is going to sound dumb, but I had to reinstall the forward shifter cable 3 times on the Acuity kit. The cable kept popping out of the mounting slot, each...
For reference, I'm running the Acuity 4 way at the shortest throw setting and default gate settings. The height is at 2, or slightly lower than stock. I'm on the factory detent springs and also installed the Acuity shifter bushings + the heavy Dream Teardrop.
Apparently I'm wearing the same...
Sorry to hear man, I'm sure you'll be in another one soon after the dust settles. I'd keep an eye out for another TEP, they pop up every now and again!
I'm wondering if the front bumper will receive any actual changes. I imagine that would create some issues with the hopefully-to-be-released HRC parts which appears to be designed with the current bumper design in mind.
Some improved headlights would be very welcome. Memory seats, reverse...
If you have some on hand, electrical tape would be a good alternative as well. You shouldn't need very much but some trial and error will get you to the right thickness. I want to say I needed enough for about half the thickness between the collar's original, smaller diameter and the full...
Shifter mods are my all time favorite. I currently run my Acuity on the shortest throw with the shift height slightly lower than stock (setting 2 I believe). I countered the increased shift effort with a heavier weighted knob from Dream Automotive and it feels just *right*
I don't have a picture (of the method) but if you wrap some tape around the collar as Vic mentioned, it can take up enough space to reduce the slack. Best picture I currently have of the results.
Funny you mentioned the F87 because a few members have moved from that car to the Type S, myself included. I keep going back to it as a potential second car though. However the Type S and M2CS are close enough in everyday performance that there's a strong overlap unless you're pushing limits...